I have a 2010 Subaru wrx, I want to by some really nice wheels with a White finish to them. But I cant find any where to buy them, so please help me and if you could give me websites that sell wheels and tires besides tirerack.com and discount tire.com because I already checked there. thanks!|||www.summitracing.com
www.ntb.com
www.wtwcorp.com
www.wheelfire.com
www.xxrwheels.com
www.dragwheels.com
www.axiswheels.com
www.conceptonewheelsusa.com
www.ccwheel.com
www.enkei.com
www.konigwheels.com
Almost all of these have white I think. hope I have been helpful.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Please help me pick a Winter Tire set for my 1995 Toyota Corolla?
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/toggleS鈥?/a>
My mechanic recommended to go to Discount Tire. There's a store near here. I just don't want to be taken advantage of. I have a front wheel drive Toyota Corolla and I live in Michigan so it's important to have a car that can handle ice and snow on the freeway till April 2011. My budget for tires + installation + fees + taxes is $350-$400 maximum.|||I recommend Dean Winter-cat tires, made by Cooper. I live in Vermont. The weather gets very bad here (like Michigan) They will cost about $75 each so they are not expensive. Best winter tire I ever drove on, Also they are studdable.|||Well, discount sells the Hankook Winter iPike in your budget. Hankook is very new to the winter tire business and I have no experience with any of their winter tires but they will certainly be better in ice and snow than whatever you might have now. Personally I would go with a more established tire with great reviews and wider distribution like the General Altimax Arctic or Firestone Winterforce - neither of which you can get at Discount Tire but are available from other major tire outlets and should be in that same price range.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>|||there are several tire companies out there find them in the yellow pages and stop by 2 or 3 of them and get opinions then go from there
My mechanic recommended to go to Discount Tire. There's a store near here. I just don't want to be taken advantage of. I have a front wheel drive Toyota Corolla and I live in Michigan so it's important to have a car that can handle ice and snow on the freeway till April 2011. My budget for tires + installation + fees + taxes is $350-$400 maximum.|||I recommend Dean Winter-cat tires, made by Cooper. I live in Vermont. The weather gets very bad here (like Michigan) They will cost about $75 each so they are not expensive. Best winter tire I ever drove on, Also they are studdable.|||Well, discount sells the Hankook Winter iPike in your budget. Hankook is very new to the winter tire business and I have no experience with any of their winter tires but they will certainly be better in ice and snow than whatever you might have now. Personally I would go with a more established tire with great reviews and wider distribution like the General Altimax Arctic or Firestone Winterforce - neither of which you can get at Discount Tire but are available from other major tire outlets and should be in that same price range.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/test鈥?/a>|||there are several tire companies out there find them in the yellow pages and stop by 2 or 3 of them and get opinions then go from there
Will riding on the rim without tire damage my car?
Yesterday morning, after entering a high way, my jetta began to make a loud noise. Firstly, I though it was caused by my A/C, but after turning off the A/C, the noise became even stronger. Then, my car began to tremble; the steer became hard to control. I carefully changed the lane and exited the highway after driving for about one mile. Then, I drove back to my apartment directly, since it's very near to my apartment. When I got off of my car, I found the front right tire had gone, there was only a rim!! I couldn't believe that I drove on this steel rim coming back.
Now I am wondering whether driving on the steel rim will damage my front axle or some other parts. Actually, the rim was bended a little, but when I replaced the new tire in discount tire, the guy said the rim is OK!
Any one has some idea about whether this will cause some mechanical damage or problems锛?Thanks!|||Get your front end alignment checked. Other than that, consider yourself very fortunate. Imagine if you had spun into a minivan full of rug rats! Good luck.|||It shouldn't have caused any damage to anything besides the rim. Unless you hit a pot hole.
Regardless i would check to see if you need to get that tire re-aligned. For one tire, it wont be too expensive to do if you have to.|||The main damage it can cause is a damaged rim. It's not really a good idea to use the bent rim. It will actually change the way the tire seats and you could have more problems in the future. Question for you. How did you not know you were driving on just the rim?|||when i had a flat on my stang i rode on the rim for about 4-5 miles. after i got my new tire put on i noticed the stering wheel shook around 45mph and up. i also noticed alittle damage on the rim but the guy said it was ok. so i guess if your cars not shaking and acting normal you should be fine,
Now I am wondering whether driving on the steel rim will damage my front axle or some other parts. Actually, the rim was bended a little, but when I replaced the new tire in discount tire, the guy said the rim is OK!
Any one has some idea about whether this will cause some mechanical damage or problems锛?Thanks!|||Get your front end alignment checked. Other than that, consider yourself very fortunate. Imagine if you had spun into a minivan full of rug rats! Good luck.|||It shouldn't have caused any damage to anything besides the rim. Unless you hit a pot hole.
Regardless i would check to see if you need to get that tire re-aligned. For one tire, it wont be too expensive to do if you have to.|||The main damage it can cause is a damaged rim. It's not really a good idea to use the bent rim. It will actually change the way the tire seats and you could have more problems in the future. Question for you. How did you not know you were driving on just the rim?|||when i had a flat on my stang i rode on the rim for about 4-5 miles. after i got my new tire put on i noticed the stering wheel shook around 45mph and up. i also noticed alittle damage on the rim but the guy said it was ok. so i guess if your cars not shaking and acting normal you should be fine,
Where can I buy a new spare tire?
I need a brand new tire which the tire size is T125/70D15. The speed rating has to be at least M. My current spare tire was manufactured in 1998.
I've already tried Discount Tire and the dealership.
My car is a 1999 Buick Century. There is no room for a full sized spare.
Don't tell me to go to a salvage yard.|||Well on a space saver spare you don't replace the tire you replace the entire rim %26amp; tire. This maybe available through your dealer but you will pay through the nose for it. I know you don't want to here the word salvage yard but this really is your best choice, Most spares there are unused and like new, Maybe they can cross Reference your spare for a newer model using the same type. good luck.|||If there is no room for a full-sized spare, then go TO THE SALVAGE YARD, and buy a temporary one that is T125/70D/15.
You cannot mount a full sized tire on temporary wheel. What is it that you don't understand?|||Since you don't want to go to a salvage yard your only other logical choice is to go to a dealer and pay full retail price.|||you need a donut tire. there,s nothing wrong with the junk yard. the tire shop can order you a tire and rim.|||A 99 Century has plenty of room for a full sized spare.|||What's wrong with a salvage yard jackass?
I've already tried Discount Tire and the dealership.
My car is a 1999 Buick Century. There is no room for a full sized spare.
Don't tell me to go to a salvage yard.|||Well on a space saver spare you don't replace the tire you replace the entire rim %26amp; tire. This maybe available through your dealer but you will pay through the nose for it. I know you don't want to here the word salvage yard but this really is your best choice, Most spares there are unused and like new, Maybe they can cross Reference your spare for a newer model using the same type. good luck.|||If there is no room for a full-sized spare, then go TO THE SALVAGE YARD, and buy a temporary one that is T125/70D/15.
You cannot mount a full sized tire on temporary wheel. What is it that you don't understand?|||Since you don't want to go to a salvage yard your only other logical choice is to go to a dealer and pay full retail price.|||you need a donut tire. there,s nothing wrong with the junk yard. the tire shop can order you a tire and rim.|||A 99 Century has plenty of room for a full sized spare.|||What's wrong with a salvage yard jackass?
Can mitsubishi dealer sell me a tire?
hi folks i hit a curve last night had a blow out on the front tire of my 2008 lancer... i put the donut on for now...but being that it is july 4th weekend everything is closed..if i go to discount tire i will have to buy 4 brand new tires when all i need is one of the same brand.. do u think mitsubishi dealer ship will sell me just one tire of the same brand??? thanks folks. also is it ok to drive with a donut on until monday today is saturday i need to go to work sunday and monday morning???? thanks again|||Any tire dealer that carries that tire can sell you a tire.|||sure buy why go to a tire store would cost you less and most likey where hes going to go get a tire at and you dont have to have same brand just same size and if discount doesnt carry it go to another tire shop not a dealership which would charge you twice as much donut spare good for about 100 miles at 45 miles per hour and should last the week end if you dont drive all over town shouldnt drive the freeway with it and if you really had to you could buy a used tire to get you thru th e weekend might cost 25 bucks been a tire guy 35 yrs or more discount wil sel one tire thats all you need and you can buy a used tire pretty much anywhere they sell tires dont have to be same brand just same size|||A dealer can not sell a tire. It sells cars only. I'm not sure
Tire size difference?
is there a considerable difference between 215/75R15 and 225/70R15? i've run it through all the computer calculators online and compared them side by side (the spare is the correct size)...and discount tire (that put the wrong tires on way back in 06) keeps saying its fine, but i want a professional, unbiased opinion if possible. Thanks!|||Well...here's the long version, I agree discount tire will say this from an availability standpoint its in there best advantage to sell sell sell. But differences are the details of your vehicle. You didn't say what kind of SUV you have just by looking at the tire size I can just assume, but miles of testing ,safety ,engine size, MPG, equipment, and emergency maneuvers is calculated by the engineers that designed your vehicle, they are aware of tolerances, and weaknesses during certifications and tune this accordingly. So its safe to stay with the manufacturer recommendations for the tires printed in your manuel,door jam, and glove box. Short version ...there similar but I hope discount tire didn't install different sizes on the same axel ? ? ? Just my two cents worth.
What can I do about Discount Tires scratching my rims.?
I was just at discount tires in Rockford, IL. I was having my tires put on, and during this process they scratched my rimes. When I brought it to the managers attention he said that I was mistaken. There is no way they scratched my rimes because they have had 10,000$ rim sets go through there so they couldn't have damaged mine. This is a problem for me especially because my car is a very nice hot rod which on occasion I do show. The scratches were not there before and now they are. The manager had the nerve to say that I wasn't listening and we are going to have to agree to disagree. Obviously I have no proof except my word against his. It's not like I took video of the rims before I entered the shop but I did inspect them before I went in in the stores parking lot. I do not recommend anyone use this chain for any reason.|||I have to agree with you on using this chain. I have been in the tire business for a long time and I do get this complaint from them often. I can tell you in a family owned and operated store this probably wouldn't happen, and if it does we take care of the issues right then and there! If we don't........well.........we don't have customers. Unfortunately your going to have to work to get your claim paid for. Call another store (trust me they have many) and ask for a district managers phone number. If they wont provide it tell them its to congratulate a store manager on there performance (sneaky I know but they don't want complaints). And usually through many calls you can get the rim repaired. The sad thing in this case is it usually cost a dealer to repair a wheel about $100. And to lose a customer over this is really, really, really, bad! And that's why I left cooperate America and now found a better way to do business. Visit a family owned locations you'll get better service, you wont have to deal with a bunch of robots,and we appreciate your business. Good Luck I hope this helps!
Yeah Matt has a good idea! But the problem with trying to get the media involved is going to be really tough. See with how large discount tire is they do a lot of advertisement and I know if they try to get involved on such a small claim discount tire would stop advertising with their media. Good Idea if it were a safety issue or something that would WOW the audience, but in this case it is just to small of an article and to much to sacrifice! Once again a very large corporation taking advantage of how large it is!
One more thing I think that is worth mentioning, see the store managers really have no "ownership mentality" the only thing they care about is sales and complaints. Once they get the sale they really don't care if that customer ever returns again. And in this case if they have to repair a wheel it will cost them part of their bonus, and if they get a complaint......well......they don't get a bonus! So please don't give up until they fix your claim!|||Unless you have undeniable proof that they were perfect prior to taking it in... there is not much you can do.
I will say this though. I have managed a collision center for 8 years now. Since I took over, I required that every vehicle have photos taken inside and out. Since I began this procedure 8 years ago, I have had many customers accuse me of damaging their vehicle while it was in my possesion. Not a single one has been correct and are usually surprised when I show them the photos of their car prior to me ever working on it.|||He's obviously just doing whatever he has to cover his own ****. Hate to hear that happened though. You could bring him to small claims court. Best I can think of.|||as long as they didnt have it marked down damaged b4 they did the service they are responsible|||You could cry and kick your heels.|||Probably the ONLY thing you could do would to contact the higher corperation of Discount Tires and actually talk with someone in sales representative or customer service. Explain to them that they had damaged my rims in the process of the tires which i had bought from (put the location of the discount tires store). Explain to them what happend, be very nice about it, and see what can be done? Send them pictures aswell in the email. If nothing goes through email, contact through phone. If they reply and say nothing, then explain to them that you will contact ABC, NBC, or your local news station and explain to the news about how lousy customer satisfaction is there, and the way they do not take care of rims when putting on tires. The Corperation of Discount Tires do NOT want that to happen because that would hurt their sales. They will maybe pay some if the rims, Take what you can get. Hopefully, youll be fully reimbursed.
Yeah Matt has a good idea! But the problem with trying to get the media involved is going to be really tough. See with how large discount tire is they do a lot of advertisement and I know if they try to get involved on such a small claim discount tire would stop advertising with their media. Good Idea if it were a safety issue or something that would WOW the audience, but in this case it is just to small of an article and to much to sacrifice! Once again a very large corporation taking advantage of how large it is!
One more thing I think that is worth mentioning, see the store managers really have no "ownership mentality" the only thing they care about is sales and complaints. Once they get the sale they really don't care if that customer ever returns again. And in this case if they have to repair a wheel it will cost them part of their bonus, and if they get a complaint......well......they don't get a bonus! So please don't give up until they fix your claim!|||Unless you have undeniable proof that they were perfect prior to taking it in... there is not much you can do.
I will say this though. I have managed a collision center for 8 years now. Since I took over, I required that every vehicle have photos taken inside and out. Since I began this procedure 8 years ago, I have had many customers accuse me of damaging their vehicle while it was in my possesion. Not a single one has been correct and are usually surprised when I show them the photos of their car prior to me ever working on it.|||He's obviously just doing whatever he has to cover his own ****. Hate to hear that happened though. You could bring him to small claims court. Best I can think of.|||as long as they didnt have it marked down damaged b4 they did the service they are responsible|||You could cry and kick your heels.|||Probably the ONLY thing you could do would to contact the higher corperation of Discount Tires and actually talk with someone in sales representative or customer service. Explain to them that they had damaged my rims in the process of the tires which i had bought from (put the location of the discount tires store). Explain to them what happend, be very nice about it, and see what can be done? Send them pictures aswell in the email. If nothing goes through email, contact through phone. If they reply and say nothing, then explain to them that you will contact ABC, NBC, or your local news station and explain to the news about how lousy customer satisfaction is there, and the way they do not take care of rims when putting on tires. The Corperation of Discount Tires do NOT want that to happen because that would hurt their sales. They will maybe pay some if the rims, Take what you can get. Hopefully, youll be fully reimbursed.
I have a lexus rx 400H..has 33,900 miles. I was told the tire sensor is bad?
The check system light came on and all the tires check perfect pressure but one of the tires they cannot detect the sensor and DISCOUNT TIRE is saying that it is bad. Now my questions is: These are new tires with about 2,500 miles on them. Could the sensor have been damaged during the installation of the tires? The check system light just came on? It has been 2 1/2 months since the new tires were installed? One thing to mention-I did have them put 2 pounds more of air in the tires, but now the air was taken out because we thought this triggered the check system indicator, but it made no difference. Any thoughts on this. Could discount tire have damage the sensor in some way. OR, does the Lexus tire sensors have a short life?|||Things break in a car. 2 and 1/2 is a long time. If they broke it the light would have lite up then.|||If they damaged the sensor it would of showed up as soon as you drove it away. Two pounds extra wouldn't kill it either. Is it covered under warranty? Lexus will take off the tire and tell you if it was damaged or not. Either way you think you should be covered.
Tire fall off? Squealing right rear on a i35, not the brakes, after tire replaced!?
So i had my car in to Discount Tire and they replaced the right rear tire. When i got it back there was a squeal coming from the right rear wheel area.
It comes and goes. When I hit a bump in the road or brake it will sometimes make it start up again. I took it in to have the brakes done on it and they told me the pads are only about 30% worn. They told me the squeal might be brake dust but it makes the noise even when I am not braking. It is consistently there when i back out of my parking place. What could it be?|||Wheel bearing....
ADDITIONAL DETAILS RESPONSE:
I hit a curb once and totally screwed up my right front brakes and my right rear wheel bearing. Both cost me 600 to get fixed. Once I saw the wheel bearing I was upset because it looked liked I could do it myself.
NOTE: That's another reason to not drink and drive.
Take the wheel off and inspect the ENTIRE area before you decide what it is. From the way it sounds you should see the problem once you take it off bro. Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. But it could be something else....a strut could also make that noise.
Take the thing off and look it over. You should see something that's just not right or some damage going on.
Matter of fact....jack it up and rotate the tire. You might be able to find out where the noise is coming from.|||Sounds like the wheel bearings. Take it back and have them look at them. If it wasn't doing this when you took it in, it's their responsibility .|||DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF CAR YOU HAVE THE BACK BREAKS ARE SELF ADJUSTING.WHEN YOU ARE IN REVERSE. YOU MAY NEED TO HAVE SOMEONE REPUTABLE, READJUST THE BREAKS|||wheel bearing get it replaced before it goes and welds itself onto the spinal then its a ***** to get off. shouldn't cost to much|||let me shake my magic ball, it says it's your struts.
It comes and goes. When I hit a bump in the road or brake it will sometimes make it start up again. I took it in to have the brakes done on it and they told me the pads are only about 30% worn. They told me the squeal might be brake dust but it makes the noise even when I am not braking. It is consistently there when i back out of my parking place. What could it be?|||Wheel bearing....
ADDITIONAL DETAILS RESPONSE:
I hit a curb once and totally screwed up my right front brakes and my right rear wheel bearing. Both cost me 600 to get fixed. Once I saw the wheel bearing I was upset because it looked liked I could do it myself.
NOTE: That's another reason to not drink and drive.
Take the wheel off and inspect the ENTIRE area before you decide what it is. From the way it sounds you should see the problem once you take it off bro. Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. But it could be something else....a strut could also make that noise.
Take the thing off and look it over. You should see something that's just not right or some damage going on.
Matter of fact....jack it up and rotate the tire. You might be able to find out where the noise is coming from.|||Sounds like the wheel bearings. Take it back and have them look at them. If it wasn't doing this when you took it in, it's their responsibility .|||DEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF CAR YOU HAVE THE BACK BREAKS ARE SELF ADJUSTING.WHEN YOU ARE IN REVERSE. YOU MAY NEED TO HAVE SOMEONE REPUTABLE, READJUST THE BREAKS|||wheel bearing get it replaced before it goes and welds itself onto the spinal then its a ***** to get off. shouldn't cost to much|||let me shake my magic ball, it says it's your struts.
Should this tire be replaced for free?
I have a tire from Discount Tire that had a warranty. It's only been a few months. You know how they say, replaced for free if any blowout. well mine blew out last night.
here's the thing though, it happened because I sort of veered into a curve for a split second at 50 MPH on a street.
you can't necessarily tell this is "why" the tire blew out, except for the fact that, the edge of the rim is bent just a little bit. not a major thing but the very edge of it is slightly bent.
I actually believe it will probably still hold a mounted tire no problem, but, will they question me? should they? should they, or are they likely to still replace the tire for free?|||the warranty is for normal use its not covered for hitting something|||as a dtc employee. yes it covers it.. this is a Road Hazard certificates cover it
|||don't listen to these people my store alone replaces 700 FREE tires a MONTH for crap like this
|||A warranty doesn't cover this type of damage. You hit a CURB not a curve and bent the rim. It and the tire are now useless and need to be replaced at your expense. They won't replace the tire for free and will not mount anything on a damaged rim.|||They probably won't mount a new tire onto it. While it probably could be done, they won't want to assume the liability for mounting a tire on a bent rim. Not sure what the guarantee cover.|||Road hazard warranty [if you bought it] does not cover reckless driving, which you were as evidenced by the damage. No free tire for you! Now go away you are wasting everyone's time.|||you hit a curb it so your fault completely and no free tyre don't even try as they will laugh at you|||Should I just go to Discount Tire and ask them politely to replace my tire?
here's the thing though, it happened because I sort of veered into a curve for a split second at 50 MPH on a street.
you can't necessarily tell this is "why" the tire blew out, except for the fact that, the edge of the rim is bent just a little bit. not a major thing but the very edge of it is slightly bent.
I actually believe it will probably still hold a mounted tire no problem, but, will they question me? should they? should they, or are they likely to still replace the tire for free?|||the warranty is for normal use its not covered for hitting something|||as a dtc employee. yes it covers it.. this is a Road Hazard certificates cover it
Report Abuse
|||don't listen to these people my store alone replaces 700 FREE tires a MONTH for crap like this
Report Abuse
|||A warranty doesn't cover this type of damage. You hit a CURB not a curve and bent the rim. It and the tire are now useless and need to be replaced at your expense. They won't replace the tire for free and will not mount anything on a damaged rim.|||They probably won't mount a new tire onto it. While it probably could be done, they won't want to assume the liability for mounting a tire on a bent rim. Not sure what the guarantee cover.|||Road hazard warranty [if you bought it] does not cover reckless driving, which you were as evidenced by the damage. No free tire for you! Now go away you are wasting everyone's time.|||you hit a curb it so your fault completely and no free tyre don't even try as they will laugh at you|||Should I just go to Discount Tire and ask them politely to replace my tire?
What is a good discount site or place to buy rims and/or tires?
I'm looking for rims for a Nissan 200SX SE.
Please and thank you. =D|||Get them at Tire Rack, also there are coupons for them at http://www.007coupons.com/Automotive/Tir鈥?/a> to save some money|||tirerack.com and discounttire.com
u may also want to check out ebay for rims.|||tirerack.com|||www.craigslist.com
www.tires.com|||The best website to look for this type of discounts is http://www.SearchAllDiscounts.com.銆€Just start with a search term like "Discount rims for Nissan".
Please and thank you. =D|||Get them at Tire Rack, also there are coupons for them at http://www.007coupons.com/Automotive/Tir鈥?/a> to save some money|||tirerack.com and discounttire.com
u may also want to check out ebay for rims.|||tirerack.com|||www.craigslist.com
www.tires.com|||The best website to look for this type of discounts is http://www.SearchAllDiscounts.com.銆€Just start with a search term like "Discount rims for Nissan".
What size tire should i run on my 1992 honda accord?
i have a 1992 honda accord 4 door. its all stock right now. i am ordering the XXR 522 16x8 +0 offset rims. i dont know what size tire to order and what brand of tire to order. i am not going to lower my honda accord at all so clearance wont be an issue. i also dont want to hit pot holes and have a flat tire, so i dont want rubber band man tires or exreme low pro tires.
any recomendations on tire size?
these are the options i have at my local discount tire
185/55-16
195/55-16
205/50-16
205/55-16
215/50-16
225/45-16
225/50-16|||215/50/16 will work perfectly with your rims. Hope this help!|||Is it a DX/LX or EX?
According to tirerack, and DX and LX came with 185-70R14, and they recommend 205-60R16 if you are going with a 16" wheel.
And I checked further, the EX came with 195/60R15, and they still recommend 205/50-16.
You want to keep the diameter roughly the same, so go with the pro's recommendation - 205/50.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TRSelectAu鈥?/a>|||Let the tyre shop choose for you. They will know which one doesn't effect your speedo to much. When you change wheel and tyre sizes it will affect you speedo readout.
any recomendations on tire size?
these are the options i have at my local discount tire
185/55-16
195/55-16
205/50-16
205/55-16
215/50-16
225/45-16
225/50-16|||215/50/16 will work perfectly with your rims. Hope this help!|||Is it a DX/LX or EX?
According to tirerack, and DX and LX came with 185-70R14, and they recommend 205-60R16 if you are going with a 16" wheel.
And I checked further, the EX came with 195/60R15, and they still recommend 205/50-16.
You want to keep the diameter roughly the same, so go with the pro's recommendation - 205/50.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TRSelectAu鈥?/a>|||Let the tyre shop choose for you. They will know which one doesn't effect your speedo to much. When you change wheel and tyre sizes it will affect you speedo readout.
What tire size should I buy?
I drive a 1998 Chevy Cavalier Z24 Coupe. I just bought some 17 inch rims for it because the old ones were beaten up, and the finish was gone. I have called multiple tire stores but they offer no confident opinions (Discount tire, the Chevy dealership etc). So my tire size options are
215/45-17
215/50-17
225/45-17
I am looking for high mileage tires, NOT PERFORMANCE tires. But I was thinking of going with the 215/50's for that reason. I thought maybe the 225's would be too big and I would get a lot of wheel rub when I hit a bump and such. You obviously will get more mileage out of bigger tires... So if someone can confirm I won't get much tire rub with the 225's I would appreciate it =)
|||you shouldn't assume that you'll get more mileage with a bigger tire. the size doesn't determine tire wear, the compound of the rubber does. However, in this case, the 225/45/17 is the closest you can come to your original tire size. You will want an H rated tire for a harder compound and softer sidewall for smoother ride and longer tread life. You won't have any issues with rubbing unless you have altered the suspension, and that the wheel is either a 17x7 or 17x7.5 with at least a 40mm positive offset. 42mm positive offset is ideal. 35-38mm offset WILL rub with a 225/45r17|||well if your worrying about tire rub then go with the smaller of the three 215 50.. and with what you getting into your not going to get any mileage out of any tire as you would if you had the right size of tire for the car.. bigger tires and wheels on any car your messing with the design of said car and with spending a lot of money to customize the front end parts you will still not get much mileage out of them|||You can surely go to Discount Tires store near by or go on their website. They have options where you can put in your car model, year...then it will give you a suggestion to what size will fit your car.
I did the same for mine and they are very helpful at discount tires. They are basically the best source when it come to tires. You can also check out NTB (national tires %26amp; battery)
Cheers!!!|||Try www.tirerack.com. They have lots of information there. You should be sure to compare the offset of these new rims to the original rims. Make sure they're not set inwards too much, or that could be worse than increasing the tire width.
Also, I have a 2002 Z24 with 225/60-R16 on the original rims and I don't get any tire rub. When you think about it, it's only 5mm wider on each side than the previous 215's.|||The larger and wider the tire, the greater chance of rubbing you will have. Bear in mind, by putting on larger tires, your speedo and odometer will no longer be accurate.|||You might as well go with the extra rubber. There wont be that much difference between 215's and 225's (not even cost I would assume).|||Well you didn't state you rim width, you said the diameter but what is the width? they usually tell you when you buy the wheel that or it is stamped on the inside of the wheel. Ranging from 5 inches wide to 10 inches wide (sometimes bigger). Rim width makes a big difference on how wide of tires will fit...but a safe assumption is that either of the 215's will fit, I would choose the tire with the closest measurements to stock so you don't mess up your speedometer or gearing ratio. Smaller circumference tires lower the gear ratio and promote Speedometer lag, Higher circumference tires raise the gear ratio and promote Speedometer Jump. Higher Gear Ratio will lower acceleration but raise top end, Lower Gear Ratio will lower top end but raise acceleration...although the gear ratio changes would be minimal, the Speedometer changes would be very noticeable with any tire 3% smaller or larger circumference than stock. Circumference is calculated using the three numbers on the tire, just type in Tire Circumference Calculator in google.
I can't confirm anything about wheel rub with the 225s unless you give me more information, I would need the wheel well depth, wheel well gap height, and Rim width to be able to really tell you anything for certain.|||I'll cut right to the chase and help you a TON. Your car originally had 205-55-16's on it. They roll 837 times per mile down the road as you drive. Go to: tirerack.com and start looking at 17 inch tires. When you select a brand and type you're interested in click under the tire picture where it says: Spec. When that page pops up look to the far right hand side of the column you will see the heading Tire RPM. In tire language that means: Revolutions Per Mile. You can safely go to a larger tire size if you do not exceed 20 less tire revolutions per mile. When a larger diameter and circumference tire rolls a mile it'll turn less revolutions which will make your speedometer read lower than you're actually going. You can also cheat the system a bit if you drop the aspect ratio of the tire from 55 to 50 and on down.
Do not get crazy with tire widths. If the back-spacing on your new wheels is the same as your old ones look at the Spec chart again for the advised rim widths for each of the tires you're looking at. Measure the width inside the bead on the new rims. Never cheat big tires on small rim widths. The tires will wear in the centers.
Have fun! and Good Luck to ya,
215/45-17
215/50-17
225/45-17
I am looking for high mileage tires, NOT PERFORMANCE tires. But I was thinking of going with the 215/50's for that reason. I thought maybe the 225's would be too big and I would get a lot of wheel rub when I hit a bump and such. You obviously will get more mileage out of bigger tires... So if someone can confirm I won't get much tire rub with the 225's I would appreciate it =)
|||you shouldn't assume that you'll get more mileage with a bigger tire. the size doesn't determine tire wear, the compound of the rubber does. However, in this case, the 225/45/17 is the closest you can come to your original tire size. You will want an H rated tire for a harder compound and softer sidewall for smoother ride and longer tread life. You won't have any issues with rubbing unless you have altered the suspension, and that the wheel is either a 17x7 or 17x7.5 with at least a 40mm positive offset. 42mm positive offset is ideal. 35-38mm offset WILL rub with a 225/45r17|||well if your worrying about tire rub then go with the smaller of the three 215 50.. and with what you getting into your not going to get any mileage out of any tire as you would if you had the right size of tire for the car.. bigger tires and wheels on any car your messing with the design of said car and with spending a lot of money to customize the front end parts you will still not get much mileage out of them|||You can surely go to Discount Tires store near by or go on their website. They have options where you can put in your car model, year...then it will give you a suggestion to what size will fit your car.
I did the same for mine and they are very helpful at discount tires. They are basically the best source when it come to tires. You can also check out NTB (national tires %26amp; battery)
Cheers!!!|||Try www.tirerack.com. They have lots of information there. You should be sure to compare the offset of these new rims to the original rims. Make sure they're not set inwards too much, or that could be worse than increasing the tire width.
Also, I have a 2002 Z24 with 225/60-R16 on the original rims and I don't get any tire rub. When you think about it, it's only 5mm wider on each side than the previous 215's.|||The larger and wider the tire, the greater chance of rubbing you will have. Bear in mind, by putting on larger tires, your speedo and odometer will no longer be accurate.|||You might as well go with the extra rubber. There wont be that much difference between 215's and 225's (not even cost I would assume).|||Well you didn't state you rim width, you said the diameter but what is the width? they usually tell you when you buy the wheel that or it is stamped on the inside of the wheel. Ranging from 5 inches wide to 10 inches wide (sometimes bigger). Rim width makes a big difference on how wide of tires will fit...but a safe assumption is that either of the 215's will fit, I would choose the tire with the closest measurements to stock so you don't mess up your speedometer or gearing ratio. Smaller circumference tires lower the gear ratio and promote Speedometer lag, Higher circumference tires raise the gear ratio and promote Speedometer Jump. Higher Gear Ratio will lower acceleration but raise top end, Lower Gear Ratio will lower top end but raise acceleration...although the gear ratio changes would be minimal, the Speedometer changes would be very noticeable with any tire 3% smaller or larger circumference than stock. Circumference is calculated using the three numbers on the tire, just type in Tire Circumference Calculator in google.
I can't confirm anything about wheel rub with the 225s unless you give me more information, I would need the wheel well depth, wheel well gap height, and Rim width to be able to really tell you anything for certain.|||I'll cut right to the chase and help you a TON. Your car originally had 205-55-16's on it. They roll 837 times per mile down the road as you drive. Go to: tirerack.com and start looking at 17 inch tires. When you select a brand and type you're interested in click under the tire picture where it says: Spec. When that page pops up look to the far right hand side of the column you will see the heading Tire RPM. In tire language that means: Revolutions Per Mile. You can safely go to a larger tire size if you do not exceed 20 less tire revolutions per mile. When a larger diameter and circumference tire rolls a mile it'll turn less revolutions which will make your speedometer read lower than you're actually going. You can also cheat the system a bit if you drop the aspect ratio of the tire from 55 to 50 and on down.
Do not get crazy with tire widths. If the back-spacing on your new wheels is the same as your old ones look at the Spec chart again for the advised rim widths for each of the tires you're looking at. Measure the width inside the bead on the new rims. Never cheat big tires on small rim widths. The tires will wear in the centers.
Have fun! and Good Luck to ya,
Tire specs: 235/65/18...guys, what is the fairest priced, longest lasting, best quality...?
I have a 2006 Nissan Murano. I do some driving out in the country to look at properties, so I do need some decent tread. Additionally, I have to consider safety because my hubby is 100% disabled, unable to walk, and I need a reliable brand so I don't have to worry about being stuck somewhere.
I've looked at Discount Tires, and they have quite an inventory to choose from.
I looked also at NTW (National Tire and Battery), and they claim this size tire is for "special order", so not readily available.
Is there a good land-locked store that would carry a decent variety of tires, with good after-the-sale service?
Live in North Texas area. I put on under 1000 miles per month. I'd like the tires to last about approx. 5 years before replacing. Price, under $200 per tire would be great!
Thank you for your assistance!
060210|||There are lots of tires in this size; NTW evidently doesn't want to bother.
I'm a fan of the Tire Rack, an Internet storefront that drop-ships tires to an installer in your area. (And they have feedback ratings for the installers, so if you have a choice, you can specify the better one.) In this particular size, the most expensive tire they offered was $206; most of them were in the $150 range. Figure $600 for a set of four, plus road-hazard coverage, which costs a little extra; your local installer will charge you maybe $75-100.
I've looked at Discount Tires, and they have quite an inventory to choose from.
I looked also at NTW (National Tire and Battery), and they claim this size tire is for "special order", so not readily available.
Is there a good land-locked store that would carry a decent variety of tires, with good after-the-sale service?
Live in North Texas area. I put on under 1000 miles per month. I'd like the tires to last about approx. 5 years before replacing. Price, under $200 per tire would be great!
Thank you for your assistance!
060210|||There are lots of tires in this size; NTW evidently doesn't want to bother.
I'm a fan of the Tire Rack, an Internet storefront that drop-ships tires to an installer in your area. (And they have feedback ratings for the installers, so if you have a choice, you can specify the better one.) In this particular size, the most expensive tire they offered was $206; most of them were in the $150 range. Figure $600 for a set of four, plus road-hazard coverage, which costs a little extra; your local installer will charge you maybe $75-100.
New tire blew resulting to damage to vehicle?
Was simply going through the drive thru at a local fast food joint. While pulling out my tire blew pulling the truck into the do not enter sign at the end. The tires are 2 months old and were purchased along with a warranty from Discount Tire. USAA claims they will assess the damage and inquire on getting Discount to pay for damages. Honestly will i have to pay my deductible or will Discount man up and cut their losses due to their faulty tire?|||It isn't a cut and dry case. You got in an "accident" on private property and probably didn't fill out a police report. You don't really have a case unless you have several witnesses with written statements. They will replace the tire but they have no way of knowing if the damage is a result of the tire or maybe you chomin' down on your burger and not paying attention.|||Depends on what caused the blowout. Tires do not just suddently explode. I have been in the tire business 9 years and never seen a tire failure that didn't have an external cause.
What should I do with these tires?
My husband put new tires on his car, but left his old tires on our balcony. He put a board on them and said its a table.
I don't want a tire table, especially since yesterday my son dragged it over on himself.
Where can I take these tires? Will a recycling place take them? Should I just throw them away? It's not like there isn't a table on balcony already.
They are very worn, Discount tire won't take them.|||yes a recycling center will take them or if your community has clean-up day then throw them in the dumpster.|||put them in the living room as a credenza.|||put them out by the dumpster some one will pick them up
I don't want a tire table, especially since yesterday my son dragged it over on himself.
Where can I take these tires? Will a recycling place take them? Should I just throw them away? It's not like there isn't a table on balcony already.
They are very worn, Discount tire won't take them.|||yes a recycling center will take them or if your community has clean-up day then throw them in the dumpster.|||put them in the living room as a credenza.|||put them out by the dumpster some one will pick them up
Tire Experts please? Bf Goodrich vs Yokohama?
I have a Nissan1996 200sx Se, And i need to get new tires. Costco has a tire a BF Goodrich for $78 per tire and Discount Tires has a Yokohama tire for $76 per tire. The Goodrich tire is 185 by 65 with a speed rating 86h. And the Yokohama tire is the same 185 by 64, but the speed rating is lower at 85s.
Here is a chart for speed rating http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoSpeedRating.dos
I dont know which tire to get, does speed rating really matter im not going to be going over 100 mph anyway. The exact tire is a BF Goodrich Traction TA or PA, not really sure think it is TA. Anyhow versus the Yokohama Avid Touring. Both sizes are 185 by 64 r14 but different speed ratings and the Yokohama has 80,000 mile warrenty vs 60,000 for the Goodrich. So which set of tires should i get?
Yokohama is here on this link but i dont have the Goodrich link.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireProductCategoryDetailFromReview.do?r=FLOINT%26amp;tck=YOKPT2%26amp;ra=findHomeSection%26amp;mf=Yokohama%26amp;v=006371%7C1996|||i would go with the yoko just for the fact it has a longer warranty but either one is a good tire and no you any dont have to worry about speed rating... im a tire guy have been for many years the best tire is always debatable everyone well have one they like more but ... and really they all about the same....you never really want the house brand or the cheapest tire they have to sale be it a name brand or not its cheaper for a reason its cheap.... any mid range price tire or a 60,000 mile tire is good for any type of car you do get what you pay for in most tires the high the price the better the tire.. in most cases im talking about stock type tires .. either one is fine to get|||I'd get the yokos|||Well besides price you should be considering SEVERAL other points. What's the purpose of the tire? All season? Snow and Ice? Summer Sport? Next you need to consider the warranty. You can't compare warranties from two different types of tires. In other words don't try to compare a sport tire warranty to a snow tire warranty. Next, depending on what kind of tire your are looking for you should look at the tires individual ratings with respect to several different aspects. If you are looking for an all season tire you should be interested in how soft or hard it's compound or composition is. This will give you an idea of how long the tire will last you. Soft compound tires wear out very quickly, however they grip the road like super glue. Conversely, hard compound tires will last a long time, but don't grip the road as well. You should also look at the water displacement of the tires tread pattern. This tells you how much water "rain" the tire will safely move at a certain speed. Lastly, look at how much tread comes on each tire. Most street tires will come new with around 10/32 of tread on them, but just as an example a BF Goodrich All Terrain TA(SUV Tire) comes with 16/32 tread on it. If you go to the tire manufacturers' website you will be able to get all of these specs and many more. Good Luck.
Here is a chart for speed rating http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoSpeedRating.dos
I dont know which tire to get, does speed rating really matter im not going to be going over 100 mph anyway. The exact tire is a BF Goodrich Traction TA or PA, not really sure think it is TA. Anyhow versus the Yokohama Avid Touring. Both sizes are 185 by 64 r14 but different speed ratings and the Yokohama has 80,000 mile warrenty vs 60,000 for the Goodrich. So which set of tires should i get?
Yokohama is here on this link but i dont have the Goodrich link.
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireProductCategoryDetailFromReview.do?r=FLOINT%26amp;tck=YOKPT2%26amp;ra=findHomeSection%26amp;mf=Yokohama%26amp;v=006371%7C1996|||i would go with the yoko just for the fact it has a longer warranty but either one is a good tire and no you any dont have to worry about speed rating... im a tire guy have been for many years the best tire is always debatable everyone well have one they like more but ... and really they all about the same....you never really want the house brand or the cheapest tire they have to sale be it a name brand or not its cheaper for a reason its cheap.... any mid range price tire or a 60,000 mile tire is good for any type of car you do get what you pay for in most tires the high the price the better the tire.. in most cases im talking about stock type tires .. either one is fine to get|||I'd get the yokos|||Well besides price you should be considering SEVERAL other points. What's the purpose of the tire? All season? Snow and Ice? Summer Sport? Next you need to consider the warranty. You can't compare warranties from two different types of tires. In other words don't try to compare a sport tire warranty to a snow tire warranty. Next, depending on what kind of tire your are looking for you should look at the tires individual ratings with respect to several different aspects. If you are looking for an all season tire you should be interested in how soft or hard it's compound or composition is. This will give you an idea of how long the tire will last you. Soft compound tires wear out very quickly, however they grip the road like super glue. Conversely, hard compound tires will last a long time, but don't grip the road as well. You should also look at the water displacement of the tires tread pattern. This tells you how much water "rain" the tire will safely move at a certain speed. Lastly, look at how much tread comes on each tire. Most street tires will come new with around 10/32 of tread on them, but just as an example a BF Goodrich All Terrain TA(SUV Tire) comes with 16/32 tread on it. If you go to the tire manufacturers' website you will be able to get all of these specs and many more. Good Luck.
Tire wear on 2001 Nissan Pathfinder?
Tried a set of Michelin LTX's and barely made over 30,000 miles due to two tires wearing on the inside/outside and the other two wearing in the middle. Went backt to OEM's which are Bridgestone Duellers. Again, only have 32,000 miles on the tire and they are just about ready to have to be replaced. The tires have worn evenly but I cannot figure out why they are wearing so quickly. Bought both sets from Discount Tires. Is something wrong with the vehicle or is Discount Tires getting low grade Michelin and Bridgestone tires for cheaper resale? Any suggestions on what to do or another tire to try?|||outside wear is a alignment problem castor/camber
inside wear ball joints or shocks
center wear is most likely over inflation |||I've had good luck with goodyear's.|||Bill I am with 51 on this answer. 2001 could easily have about 90,000 or more miles by now after any slack in the steering and suspension parts are eliminated also replace the struts and rear shocks. Next find a shop with a newer Hunter alignment rack. MonroeMatics are just fine for that truck (it is soft any way) Invest in a really good tire pressure gauge. Move the back tires front every other oil change have them ballanced once a year. Discount tires buy from the same suppliers as Tirerack Good-Year Firestone and NTB. I use tirerack.com and call if I want the tires and have them shipped to an approved installer who also has the alignment and suspension rebuilding abilities. Good Luck
inside wear ball joints or shocks
center wear is most likely over inflation |||I've had good luck with goodyear's.|||Bill I am with 51 on this answer. 2001 could easily have about 90,000 or more miles by now after any slack in the steering and suspension parts are eliminated also replace the struts and rear shocks. Next find a shop with a newer Hunter alignment rack. MonroeMatics are just fine for that truck (it is soft any way) Invest in a really good tire pressure gauge. Move the back tires front every other oil change have them ballanced once a year. Discount tires buy from the same suppliers as Tirerack Good-Year Firestone and NTB. I use tirerack.com and call if I want the tires and have them shipped to an approved installer who also has the alignment and suspension rebuilding abilities. Good Luck
Why is Wal-Mart jacking up prices during a recession after they have killed so many smaller stores.?
Is anyone else noticing about a 25%price increase at Wal-Marts. Look at automotive, tires, Compare to discount tire.|||If you really believe they are intentionally raising prices JUST because we're in bad economic times-I can't help you...no business even as clueless as Walmart is anymore would do that. That said, I'm a total tightwad and do most of the shopping for our household. I worked for WM for a few years (plus a few other retailers). If you do see something going up by 25%, it's not the store doing this as much as the producer of the product. The price is then raised at store level as a reflection of the price increase-I'm sure you've heard the saying "passing the cost on to the customer." Retailers prices always have some profit margin built in but to change that margin by much of anything only happens in rare occasions, but again when it does it's only in small amounts-nothing close to the 25% you point out.
By pointing out you've seen this 25% increase in something you obviously know what the old price was. Why not ask a manager about this to see if it's a pricing error or a true jump in price. Heck, with that much of a jump in price why even care...just go get the item somewhere else. Jump on the bandwagon with so many others who are learning Walmart is far from the only game in town with good prices. A good consumer "knows" what a good price is. You obviously know what the price was so now all you have to do is find the same or better price elsewhere and make your purchase. You vote with your dollar and that's the only thing big companies understand at the end of the day.|||In business terms it's called "dumping" and I'm fairly certain that it may be an illegal practice in some countries. Involving selling at lower prices than everyone else until eventually developing a monopolistic competition over the market, this is followed by jacking up prices to "whatever the market will bear", as they say, simply because they can by that point. Standard Oil really set the 'standard' for that I'm afraid. It's a practice which lacks ethics and there should be better laws put in place to guard against it in my opinion. When SONY (Standard Oil of New York) was being persecuted for it, they were able to escape the treason charges simply by claiming that they would stop, and then moving to another state thus changing their business name, where they kept up the practise concealed as Standard Oil of New Jersey, Standard Oil of Ohio, etc. They're still getting away with it actually. But Walmart is the more obvious example of the two. The federal reserve controls the inflation rate by controlling the money supply, inflation being around 2.72% lately, so of course that plays a big part as well. The more money out there in circulation, the less it's worth, therefore prices have to rise to reflect lack of spending power in that money. Things are not going well economically lately, there are many unethical reasons for that but I am keeping hope alive that we're heading for improvements, probably and preferably sooner than later.
By pointing out you've seen this 25% increase in something you obviously know what the old price was. Why not ask a manager about this to see if it's a pricing error or a true jump in price. Heck, with that much of a jump in price why even care...just go get the item somewhere else. Jump on the bandwagon with so many others who are learning Walmart is far from the only game in town with good prices. A good consumer "knows" what a good price is. You obviously know what the price was so now all you have to do is find the same or better price elsewhere and make your purchase. You vote with your dollar and that's the only thing big companies understand at the end of the day.|||In business terms it's called "dumping" and I'm fairly certain that it may be an illegal practice in some countries. Involving selling at lower prices than everyone else until eventually developing a monopolistic competition over the market, this is followed by jacking up prices to "whatever the market will bear", as they say, simply because they can by that point. Standard Oil really set the 'standard' for that I'm afraid. It's a practice which lacks ethics and there should be better laws put in place to guard against it in my opinion. When SONY (Standard Oil of New York) was being persecuted for it, they were able to escape the treason charges simply by claiming that they would stop, and then moving to another state thus changing their business name, where they kept up the practise concealed as Standard Oil of New Jersey, Standard Oil of Ohio, etc. They're still getting away with it actually. But Walmart is the more obvious example of the two. The federal reserve controls the inflation rate by controlling the money supply, inflation being around 2.72% lately, so of course that plays a big part as well. The more money out there in circulation, the less it's worth, therefore prices have to rise to reflect lack of spending power in that money. Things are not going well economically lately, there are many unethical reasons for that but I am keeping hope alive that we're heading for improvements, probably and preferably sooner than later.
Petro Canada vs. Canadian Tire Gas Bar - Whose price is lower more often?
I've always used Petro Canada since I started driving, due to the Petro points program. But then I read online that Canadian Tire Gas Bars are considered discount gas brands. Does this mean it's often cheaper than Petro Canada? I haven't noticed, having not really compared the two when out and about, but has anyone here ever compared the two?|||It changes from week to week.
If you're happy with theo ne you're with now, why not stay there.
Good luck.
If you're happy with theo ne you're with now, why not stay there.
Good luck.
Good ways for selling tires and 20 inch rims.?
I have a set of 20 inch rims and 15 inch tires that is taking up garage space any good tips or ideas for selling these.
Rims(Mega Alloy 834) no tires.
Tires(Basic Tires) used, i brought them brand new from discount tire 2 months ago.|||You might run a free classified on Craigslist or if you have a small town local paper list them there.
Or possibly a flea market if you ever go to one.
Rims(Mega Alloy 834) no tires.
Tires(Basic Tires) used, i brought them brand new from discount tire 2 months ago.|||You might run a free classified on Craigslist or if you have a small town local paper list them there.
Or possibly a flea market if you ever go to one.
Tire Disposal Fee for Bringing In Blank Rims!?
I bought 4 winter tires from Discount Tire Outlet here in Illinois. I bought 3 junk yard rims that did not have tires on them for this project (1 set of winter, 1 set of non-winter tires).
Plus I have one full-sized, spare rim with tire (tread style is old, but tread depth looks nearly new) that I bought a year ago from a junkyard that was standby on a road trip.
Hence I have 3 rims, and 1 rim with tire (all 4 rims are the same diameter and width).These will be the 4 rims for the 4 new winter tires.
I want to keep that odd, yet new, tire! No disposal of anything.
The tires I am driving on now are not going anywhere. They aren't going to even put the new tires with rims on my car yet. I'll do that myself in December.
I have an appointment tomorrow to get the new tires on these spare rims I have. I explained on purchase I am not disposing of any tires, yet the cashier billed me, as I saw afterward.
It's $10 or $2.50 a tire. Now, this is a matter of principle, and if $10 is nothing, then mail me $10. Open your wallet and hand it over if it is nothing.
How should I start my argument with them tomorrow when I arrive for tire installation?
The employee isn't too blame. (Though the one on the phone only said, "This is our policy...you were billed for this already" (Doubt he was the manager).
Does the Federal Government see 3 imaginary tires somehow? They're only rims. The fourth rim has a good tire I am keeping no matter what.
Does the CEO of Discount Tire see 3 imaginary tires for imaginary disposal?
I want $10 back. Worse I had to put it on their own credit card (only way to get their discounts...doesn't every big business do this crap now), so it's tougher to refund a credit card purchase. But you can. I want to see "Credit: $10" on my statement, whenever that arrives in the mail.
Last, what about this scenario:
I purchase 4 tires AND new rims for that business......do you think they would still charge the $10 environmental/disposal fee?
For what!?
Taxes have to be logical!
Basically, just tell me if you think I will be able to get the $10 back or not.
I have all year. I only work part-time and the place is close to me.|||They shouldn't charge you the disposal fee since they are not the once who is disposing of the tires. If they can't put the $10 back on your credit card then ask them to give you a $10 credit next time you get an oil change or any other service.|||just burn em.|||you are right
they are wrong
don't start at the bottom
go straight to the manager
or his manager
or the district office
Illinois
Discount Tire
55 Shuman Blvd.
Suite 575
Naperville, IL 60563-8211
(630) 778-7171
(630) 778-7194 FAX|||The technicians never read the whole work order. When I get tires I always tell them no new stem no balance. I don鈥檛 pay for them but the guy in shop does it anyway. 99.999999% of the work order says stems and balance. So the guy in the shop just does mine that way not even knowing he was not suppose to.
That鈥檚 what happened to you only in reverse. You needed to speak up right then when you were paying. You would have a hard time proving it after the fact.
On the other hand a good service manager would correct your problem to keep you as a happy repeat customer.|||Discount has a standard add-on. It includes stem, disposal, warranty insurance and so on. Yes its a rip. You're supposed to lay down the ground rules when you buy the tires and refuse the add-ons. Good luck trying after the fact.
Discount tires in Denver just throw those in as part of the tire cost. You know, Firestone isn't all that much more and alot less hassle.|||if there were no old tires left with them then they cannot charge you the disposal fee. If they do tell them you also want to get a core refund on something you didnt buy see how they like it.
Plus I have one full-sized, spare rim with tire (tread style is old, but tread depth looks nearly new) that I bought a year ago from a junkyard that was standby on a road trip.
Hence I have 3 rims, and 1 rim with tire (all 4 rims are the same diameter and width).These will be the 4 rims for the 4 new winter tires.
I want to keep that odd, yet new, tire! No disposal of anything.
The tires I am driving on now are not going anywhere. They aren't going to even put the new tires with rims on my car yet. I'll do that myself in December.
I have an appointment tomorrow to get the new tires on these spare rims I have. I explained on purchase I am not disposing of any tires, yet the cashier billed me, as I saw afterward.
It's $10 or $2.50 a tire. Now, this is a matter of principle, and if $10 is nothing, then mail me $10. Open your wallet and hand it over if it is nothing.
How should I start my argument with them tomorrow when I arrive for tire installation?
The employee isn't too blame. (Though the one on the phone only said, "This is our policy...you were billed for this already" (Doubt he was the manager).
Does the Federal Government see 3 imaginary tires somehow? They're only rims. The fourth rim has a good tire I am keeping no matter what.
Does the CEO of Discount Tire see 3 imaginary tires for imaginary disposal?
I want $10 back. Worse I had to put it on their own credit card (only way to get their discounts...doesn't every big business do this crap now), so it's tougher to refund a credit card purchase. But you can. I want to see "Credit: $10" on my statement, whenever that arrives in the mail.
Last, what about this scenario:
I purchase 4 tires AND new rims for that business......do you think they would still charge the $10 environmental/disposal fee?
For what!?
Taxes have to be logical!
Basically, just tell me if you think I will be able to get the $10 back or not.
I have all year. I only work part-time and the place is close to me.|||They shouldn't charge you the disposal fee since they are not the once who is disposing of the tires. If they can't put the $10 back on your credit card then ask them to give you a $10 credit next time you get an oil change or any other service.|||just burn em.|||you are right
they are wrong
don't start at the bottom
go straight to the manager
or his manager
or the district office
Illinois
Discount Tire
55 Shuman Blvd.
Suite 575
Naperville, IL 60563-8211
(630) 778-7171
(630) 778-7194 FAX|||The technicians never read the whole work order. When I get tires I always tell them no new stem no balance. I don鈥檛 pay for them but the guy in shop does it anyway. 99.999999% of the work order says stems and balance. So the guy in the shop just does mine that way not even knowing he was not suppose to.
That鈥檚 what happened to you only in reverse. You needed to speak up right then when you were paying. You would have a hard time proving it after the fact.
On the other hand a good service manager would correct your problem to keep you as a happy repeat customer.|||Discount has a standard add-on. It includes stem, disposal, warranty insurance and so on. Yes its a rip. You're supposed to lay down the ground rules when you buy the tires and refuse the add-ons. Good luck trying after the fact.
Discount tires in Denver just throw those in as part of the tire cost. You know, Firestone isn't all that much more and alot less hassle.|||if there were no old tires left with them then they cannot charge you the disposal fee. If they do tell them you also want to get a core refund on something you didnt buy see how they like it.
How much will tires for my 2002 Kia Spectra cost?
I've looked online and only been able to generate one answer from Discount Tires for out of door cost for about 278.67 total. Is there anyone here who works for a national tire place that can give me a quote or anyone with this car or tire size -P 185/65-14 85H, that can tell me how much four tires will cost. Or where is cheapest. |||try pep boys.thats a cheap tire for them the store by me says 38 per tire plus mounting-balancing-disposal of old tires.|||If you need to be totally cheap on it, call around to places that sell rims or tires and see if they have any take offs that are relatively decent condition.
If you are a member of Sams club or Costco, usually you can get decent tire prices that way.
Beware when ordering online, by the time you pay shipping and then pay a local tire place 10-20 per tire you usually aren't coming out ahead.
If you are a member of Sams club or Costco, usually you can get decent tire prices that way.
Beware when ordering online, by the time you pay shipping and then pay a local tire place 10-20 per tire you usually aren't coming out ahead.
I shattered a rim on my Mini Cooper getting onto the highway. Should the city pay for this?
There is a huge, what one might call, speed bump in the acceleration lane getting on Westbound Interstate 30 at Eastchase Parkway in Fort Worth Texas. I realize that my car (MiniCooper) is tiny but this could do some damage to any car, I'm sure. Anyway the rim was shattered, the tire was ripped. A new rim for Coops was $750, new tire $300. I opted out of replacing the factory rim, instead going with a full set of after market rims for close to $600. Vincent up at Discount Tire hooked me up with $50 off of the tire, also. Question is...Should the city reimburse me for the damages done to Coops?|||I blew out two tires when I was driving after dark one evening, and went through what appeared to be a puddle of water, that was really a very deep pot hole full of water. As I pulled to the side of the road, there were three other cars that had done the same thing. We all decided to individually write letters to the city, because I pay taxes so that the roads are properly maintained, and obviously they are not doing their job. Shockingly, they refunded myself and everyone else for our expenses.
A speed bump may be different, since it is suppose to be there, but it's worth a shot. If you explain the situation, they may just be understanding.|||Aren't you supposed to be looking ahead to see any obstacles in the road, so that they can be avoided?
You can call the state (they are responsible for interstate maintenance, not the city) and file a claim, but it will be denied. The appeal process may cost you more than your new wheels. Chalk it up to lesson learned.
Why didn't you look for a wheel in a salvage yard? Much cheaper. If you just wanted someone to pay for your new custom wheels, look somewhere else.|||Wow. That's awful!
As terrible as it is, the answer is no, the city shouldn't reimburse you, and you wouldn't want them to. It would result in taxes so high that you couldn't afford to live there. If the city had to pay for every situation like yours, it would go broke, not to mention the bureaucracy it would create to have people investigate every claim.
Just chalk it up to a lousy experience and move on, taking extra good care of your cute little car. I hope you have good insurance.|||Um, no. Try all you like, but you will never get a dime. They will call it a road hazzard.|||your not gonna get any money... but if you do file a claim and there are enough people with the same problem they might fix the road..............
but you wont get any money.. lol
A speed bump may be different, since it is suppose to be there, but it's worth a shot. If you explain the situation, they may just be understanding.|||Aren't you supposed to be looking ahead to see any obstacles in the road, so that they can be avoided?
You can call the state (they are responsible for interstate maintenance, not the city) and file a claim, but it will be denied. The appeal process may cost you more than your new wheels. Chalk it up to lesson learned.
Why didn't you look for a wheel in a salvage yard? Much cheaper. If you just wanted someone to pay for your new custom wheels, look somewhere else.|||Wow. That's awful!
As terrible as it is, the answer is no, the city shouldn't reimburse you, and you wouldn't want them to. It would result in taxes so high that you couldn't afford to live there. If the city had to pay for every situation like yours, it would go broke, not to mention the bureaucracy it would create to have people investigate every claim.
Just chalk it up to a lousy experience and move on, taking extra good care of your cute little car. I hope you have good insurance.|||Um, no. Try all you like, but you will never get a dime. They will call it a road hazzard.|||your not gonna get any money... but if you do file a claim and there are enough people with the same problem they might fix the road..............
but you wont get any money.. lol
Why does my car vibrate when I apply the brakes?
I have a '06 Chevy Cobalt LS and I recently put after-market wheels on the car. The stock tires fit the wheels and I picked the wheels because they are made to fit a '06 Chevy Cobalt (with 4-lug, 15" x 6.5" wheels). Now when I apply the brakes at speeds above 30 MPH, the front of the car shakes as though the ABS system is kicking in. It quits after the car has slowed to speeds under 30 MPH.
The wheels do not appear to be rubbing on the calipers. The wheels were electronically spin balanced at Discount Tire Co. where I purchased them.|||Your wheels are improperly torqued. They must be torqued to the proper amount in the proper sequence. This is true for all wheels and vehicles but is much more critical with disc brakes.When torqued improperly, the rotors will flex and warp. If they warp more than a few thousandths of an inch you can get an immediate pulsation in your brakes. If you properly retorque them before measurable wear occours you can get rid of the pulsing that way. But, if you have driven enough the rotor will wear unvenly making tiny variations in thickness. Disc brakes cannot have more than .0005" thickness variation. If this has happened and you have this all you can do is replace or machine the rotors. I would suggest replacement on such a new vehicle because rotors are not made like they used to be and they wear more because of the harder metal pads.|||Probably it's loose and that in fact is causing it to vibrate. Generally speaking things that are tight will not rattle.|||Brake rotors (look like an "old" 33 rpm record) are discs. When they heat up they sometimes warp (like that old record did)..when you step on the brake to stop the car the rotyation of that warp makes your foot and pedal feel like it goes up and down...replace or "resurface" the rotors and you should be ok. You might have to replace the brake pads as well.
You may also feel it in the steering wheel, too.|||you might have a bent wheel or you got a disc out of round.|||MAYBE YOU LOST A WHEEL WEIGHT. GET THEM CHECKED. I WOULD ALSO CHECK YOUR BREAKS AND ROTORS.|||SOUNDS LIKE THE FRONEND IS OUT OF LINE|||The car did not have this problem until you put after market wheels and Stock tires on, so therefore I believe your problem lies with the wheels and tires, not the brakes, although if brakes did become part of the problem then it was due to having a incompatible wheel and tires that affected the brakes.|||Most likely when the new tires and wheels were put on they used an air wrench unfortunately. This will unevenly torque the lug nuts and lead to very rapir warpage of the rotors. Once they are warped the brake pads ride up and down on the hills and valleys as the rotors turn with the wheels. At low speed it is not terribly noticable when you are braking as the transition between the high and low points on the rotor is slower. Braking from high speeds, however, the transition is much faster as the rotor is turning faster, and it feels like a vibration, sometimes quite a violent one.
I am afraid that at the very least you will need to have the rotors turned (machined back to flat), or if they are too badly warped you will have to replace them. In either case, when they remount the tires insist on having the mechanic use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs to spec and to do the job by hand, not with air wrenches to avoid this problem in the future.
This happens quite often I am sorry to say at shops that try to save time by using air wrenches on wheel mounting.|||When you apply the brakes and have a brake shake, rotors are warped, usually caused by excessive heat and hitting water when they are hot.|||I would have to say that they overtightened the lug nuts and warped the rotors.
The wheels do not appear to be rubbing on the calipers. The wheels were electronically spin balanced at Discount Tire Co. where I purchased them.|||Your wheels are improperly torqued. They must be torqued to the proper amount in the proper sequence. This is true for all wheels and vehicles but is much more critical with disc brakes.When torqued improperly, the rotors will flex and warp. If they warp more than a few thousandths of an inch you can get an immediate pulsation in your brakes. If you properly retorque them before measurable wear occours you can get rid of the pulsing that way. But, if you have driven enough the rotor will wear unvenly making tiny variations in thickness. Disc brakes cannot have more than .0005" thickness variation. If this has happened and you have this all you can do is replace or machine the rotors. I would suggest replacement on such a new vehicle because rotors are not made like they used to be and they wear more because of the harder metal pads.|||Probably it's loose and that in fact is causing it to vibrate. Generally speaking things that are tight will not rattle.|||Brake rotors (look like an "old" 33 rpm record) are discs. When they heat up they sometimes warp (like that old record did)..when you step on the brake to stop the car the rotyation of that warp makes your foot and pedal feel like it goes up and down...replace or "resurface" the rotors and you should be ok. You might have to replace the brake pads as well.
You may also feel it in the steering wheel, too.|||you might have a bent wheel or you got a disc out of round.|||MAYBE YOU LOST A WHEEL WEIGHT. GET THEM CHECKED. I WOULD ALSO CHECK YOUR BREAKS AND ROTORS.|||SOUNDS LIKE THE FRONEND IS OUT OF LINE|||The car did not have this problem until you put after market wheels and Stock tires on, so therefore I believe your problem lies with the wheels and tires, not the brakes, although if brakes did become part of the problem then it was due to having a incompatible wheel and tires that affected the brakes.|||Most likely when the new tires and wheels were put on they used an air wrench unfortunately. This will unevenly torque the lug nuts and lead to very rapir warpage of the rotors. Once they are warped the brake pads ride up and down on the hills and valleys as the rotors turn with the wheels. At low speed it is not terribly noticable when you are braking as the transition between the high and low points on the rotor is slower. Braking from high speeds, however, the transition is much faster as the rotor is turning faster, and it feels like a vibration, sometimes quite a violent one.
I am afraid that at the very least you will need to have the rotors turned (machined back to flat), or if they are too badly warped you will have to replace them. In either case, when they remount the tires insist on having the mechanic use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs to spec and to do the job by hand, not with air wrenches to avoid this problem in the future.
This happens quite often I am sorry to say at shops that try to save time by using air wrenches on wheel mounting.|||When you apply the brakes and have a brake shake, rotors are warped, usually caused by excessive heat and hitting water when they are hot.|||I would have to say that they overtightened the lug nuts and warped the rotors.
How much does it cost to fix a bent rim?
Does discount tire do this? If so how much? Thanks for your help :)|||Discount tire does not repair wheels. There are special companies who specialize in repairing bent aluminum wheels. Look through the advertisement pages in Motor Trend, Road and Track and Car and Driver magazines.
If you have a bent steel wheel go to a car junk yard and buy an inexpensive true turning used replacement for your *particular car. New car dealerships and Frey the Wheel Man can get new steel wheels.|||Depends on the wheel. If it is steel it can often be straightened out with a little "gentle persuasion" from a big hammer. If you go this route you need to make sure there are no air leaks, and you would definitely need to have it balanced before using it. It it is aluminum or some other alloy you are pretty much out of luck.
Chances are your best bet is to buy a new wheel. You can get one from the dealer (expensive as hell) or get one from a junk yard. If you go the junk yard route just make sure the wheel is correct (right bolt pattern, right offset, right width and radius).
I haven't heard of "Discount Tire" but they sound like some national company that probably hires high school kids who don't really know what they are doing. Take it to a local shop. You are going to need to pay for a new wheel or to have this one fixed, have the tire (maybe need to be replaced) mounted and balanced, and then put back on your car. Depending on where you live, if you get new or used parts, and which shop/dealer you choose this could be anywhere between a $25 repair and maybe $200. Choose wisely.|||It depends on you.
Are you going to let the tire company railroad you to buying a new wheel from the dealer, or are you going to take matters into your own hands and buy a wheel from the scrapyard?|||It needs to be replaced. The cost depends on what kind of a wheel it is. They can take care getting you a different one. They will probably get one from a salvage yard.|||I would buy a new (used) one off ebay $50
If you have a bent steel wheel go to a car junk yard and buy an inexpensive true turning used replacement for your *particular car. New car dealerships and Frey the Wheel Man can get new steel wheels.|||Depends on the wheel. If it is steel it can often be straightened out with a little "gentle persuasion" from a big hammer. If you go this route you need to make sure there are no air leaks, and you would definitely need to have it balanced before using it. It it is aluminum or some other alloy you are pretty much out of luck.
Chances are your best bet is to buy a new wheel. You can get one from the dealer (expensive as hell) or get one from a junk yard. If you go the junk yard route just make sure the wheel is correct (right bolt pattern, right offset, right width and radius).
I haven't heard of "Discount Tire" but they sound like some national company that probably hires high school kids who don't really know what they are doing. Take it to a local shop. You are going to need to pay for a new wheel or to have this one fixed, have the tire (maybe need to be replaced) mounted and balanced, and then put back on your car. Depending on where you live, if you get new or used parts, and which shop/dealer you choose this could be anywhere between a $25 repair and maybe $200. Choose wisely.|||It depends on you.
Are you going to let the tire company railroad you to buying a new wheel from the dealer, or are you going to take matters into your own hands and buy a wheel from the scrapyard?|||It needs to be replaced. The cost depends on what kind of a wheel it is. They can take care getting you a different one. They will probably get one from a salvage yard.|||I would buy a new (used) one off ebay $50
Where can I find stock wheels for my 99 Oldsmobile Alero?
I recently purchased a 99 Oldsmobile Alero, and it has the most ridiculous chrome rims on it! They look SO bad! I took the car to Discount Tire, and they told me that brand new, the wheels I have were worth about $100 each - they are 16" MB Motoring wheels. I want to sell the MB Motoring wheels and find some 16" Alero wheels for the same amount (or less). A Chevy dealer told me that a new set would be atleast $500. I'm totally willing to buy used - I'd actually prefer it! Where can I find some wheels?? (Don't say eBay - I've looked there, and everyone selling Alero wheels is selling them individually for way more than I want to spend. I want to find a whole set.) Also, where should I sell the MB Motoring wheels?|||Sure try calling your local auto salvage yard? Dump your old wheels in the Penney Saver or like ad paper? Good Luck!!~:)+|||www.ebay.com is your best bet|||ok,try a real tire shop that sells new stock wheels.they should have them for about 40-80 dollars a piece.|||if you arent willing to spend 800 for a whole set, you have 2 choices. a junkyard where you can bargain with them or forget about it. rims are worth much more than 800 , even oem rims. so stop grumping because technically ebay is the best bet. from what your dealer quotes, that is actually not too bad a deal. so 200 is really good.
Best tire for small suv?
I have a Honda CRV, tires are 205/70-15...
Tread life is important, as well as comfort and noise.
I'll most likely be getting them from discount tire, if that makes any difference...
thanks for your help.|||Hi Shane, go see your local B.F. Goodrich dealer, they carry every type and style of tire that you require.
Tread life is important, as well as comfort and noise.
I'll most likely be getting them from discount tire, if that makes any difference...
thanks for your help.|||Hi Shane, go see your local B.F. Goodrich dealer, they carry every type and style of tire that you require.
How can I lock in Employee Discount price on Quick Books Pro?
I'm tired of having to go in and re-enter the discount amount everytime an emplyee wants to buy something. Is there a way to keep the discount price locked in or what?|||i dnt know just keep useing yahoo.answers
How much does 1 wheel bearing cost for a 2006 Dodge Charger?
My Charger and I were driving downt he highway and my wheel started shaking, it felt like it was going to fall off! So I went to Discount Tire and they told me my wheel bearing on the front drivers side was either loose or needed to be replaced I just wanted to know how much to spend so I dont get taken advantage of.|||it is 1 hour labor i charge $50 and the wheel hub / bearing $100 approx that would be my estimate but i am cheep expect to pay $175 to $250 for the job|||That does not sound like a wheel bearing, it sounds like a bad tire (tread separation or unbalanced) or ball joint, a broken wheel lug, or something else in your suspension came loose. Get a second opinion.
A wheel bearing should cost about $50, but for most newer cars you need to use a heavy-duty machine press to install it. I recently paid $40 for just the machine-press work. To have it done in a shop, expect $60-$80 for parts and 2-3 hours labor.|||I know that if you go to http://mibearings.com and fill out the form on the right side they will look-up the bearings for you and give you a good price. It will be cheaper than the auto parts sore.
Labor should be from 1-2 hours.
Bearings can cost from $40 to $300, I suggest you check out the above website.|||if it is the wheel bearing then replace both.i find it hard it believe the bearings are bad already.make sure you didn't lose a wheel weight or have a cord break in the tire.|||put front end on jack and stands with wheel off ground grab wheel and try to moveside to side and up and down. youll find out where it is lose at,|||Get a second opinion.
You may have simply lost a wheel weight and you tire is out of balance.
A wheel bearing should cost about $50, but for most newer cars you need to use a heavy-duty machine press to install it. I recently paid $40 for just the machine-press work. To have it done in a shop, expect $60-$80 for parts and 2-3 hours labor.|||I know that if you go to http://mibearings.com and fill out the form on the right side they will look-up the bearings for you and give you a good price. It will be cheaper than the auto parts sore.
Labor should be from 1-2 hours.
Bearings can cost from $40 to $300, I suggest you check out the above website.|||if it is the wheel bearing then replace both.i find it hard it believe the bearings are bad already.make sure you didn't lose a wheel weight or have a cord break in the tire.|||put front end on jack and stands with wheel off ground grab wheel and try to moveside to side and up and down. youll find out where it is lose at,|||Get a second opinion.
You may have simply lost a wheel weight and you tire is out of balance.
Anybody know where i can buy tires without paying everything at once?
i need new tires and maybe wheels for my truck and i cant afford to pay everything at once. discount tire co. offers layaway but i need the tires now and also offer finance that u have to apply for witch i cant cuz i dont have credit. anybody in phoenix az that know where to find a place?|||Go to your local firestone, and apply for their inhouse credit card. i got new tires for both my trucks, with rebates, and 6 months with no interest. Awesome deal. Otherwise, if you don't like bridgestone's, pay with a credit card.|||ANY OF THOSE CHAIN STORE OFFER THIS, JUST BE REAL CAREFUL AND READ THE FINE PRINT.
Why does my car wobble when I go above 60 mph?
I just got a new set of all-season tires installed in my car at Discount Tire. Immediately, I noticed when I go above 60 mph my car starts wobbling. I pulled over to the emergency lane because I thought I had a flat tire, but the tires look fine. What could be causing this? It happens constantly. Thanks.|||I would go back to Discount Tire and make sure they were balanced properly. If they are it could be an alignment issue. I had a car years ago that did that and when I got it aligned it stopped.|||Wheel nuts left loose, or the wheel may have thrown the weights off it.
Don't discount the fact that a tyre might also be bad!
Take it back to the shop and explain the problem.|||its most likely your tires are in need of balancing since you said you got new ones but if isnt that it could be a bad strut|||Your tyres need balancing|||your wheels may-be off balance need wheel aliment or the wheel are loose!|||tire balance needed.|||go back where you had the tyres fitted at least one is not balanced properly|||Take it right back to DT. and chek the balance, or they left some bolts loose
Don't discount the fact that a tyre might also be bad!
Take it back to the shop and explain the problem.|||its most likely your tires are in need of balancing since you said you got new ones but if isnt that it could be a bad strut|||Your tyres need balancing|||your wheels may-be off balance need wheel aliment or the wheel are loose!|||tire balance needed.|||go back where you had the tyres fitted at least one is not balanced properly|||Take it right back to DT. and chek the balance, or they left some bolts loose
What is the bolt pattern for my rims?
I have a 1992 Lexus SC 300. I had new wheels put on by Discount Tire. I'm trying to sell the 15" Koenig Rims that were on it originally. I keep getting inquiries asking what bolt pattern they are. Help?|||Well, I assume they are 5 lug. So measure from one lug hole, skip a hole next to it, and then measure to the next lug. Is better to show on a diagram. Basically skip a hole when measuring from one lug hole to the other. That will tell your spacing. Like for example, some ford cars, are 5(lugs) x 4 1/2" space between the 2 mentioned lugs, including the skipped one. Hope that makes sense. Good luck.|||CHWCK THE STUDS ON THE CAR WHEN YOU PUT THE LUG NUTS BACK ON
Anyone know of a valid Stub Hub discount code that doesn't send me to ktown tickets or directly to Stubhub?
I've been searching for hours and every "Stub Hub" discount link I click either takes me to ktowntickets or directly back to StubHub. If anyone knows how to get a valid discount code, please let me know. Growing tired of the spammers/scammers out there.|||Hi David,
I'm not sure what you mean about it taking you back to the site? How would you use the code w/o going back to the site?
We maintain an updated list of current online discount coupon codes for the major ticket sellers on our site at http://cityeventscalendar.org/ticket-cou鈥?/a> but I don't think we have any current ones from StubHub. Take a look if you'd like to use a code form another seller. Also, check back because we do have StubHub codes when they're available.|||136492
I'm not sure what you mean about it taking you back to the site? How would you use the code w/o going back to the site?
We maintain an updated list of current online discount coupon codes for the major ticket sellers on our site at http://cityeventscalendar.org/ticket-cou鈥?/a> but I don't think we have any current ones from StubHub. Take a look if you'd like to use a code form another seller. Also, check back because we do have StubHub codes when they're available.|||136492
Correct tire pressure for Falken 329s?
my car has 4 Falken 329s. its 2003 VW Jetta. the gasdoor says 26 rear and front. right now my car pulls to the right and i already checked my alignment and its fine. Discount tire said that the air pressure should be around 32psi for these tires. which one is the right one???|||32psi. you can also look on the side of the tire and read the spec pressure.|||The tire pressures listed on the inside of the fuel filler door are accurate for ANY TIRE that is the same size and load index as the tires originally fitted to the vehicle.
Most "pull" complaints are actually due to tire wear issues and are not caused by the alignment - at least not directly. If you are trying to diagnose a "pull" start by cross-rotating the front tires. If the pull goes away or changes direction you know it is a tire problem.|||The spec pressure listed on the side of the tire is the 'maximum' psi the tire can hold. NEVER use this as an indicator. The correct psi for your tires is always set by the manufacturer of the vehicle. In this case, VW wants 26... this is right. Playing with the inflation of the tires can drastically change intended handling, and traction of the vehicle. There will be a placard posted in the glove box, door jamb, console... or as you said the fuel door, which will have the correct vehicle manucaturer inflation specs.
26 psi? Really? Thats quite low for any tire. Many tires can fail due to excessive overheating if they are inflated too low... remember the whole Ford Explorer fiasco? They blamed Firestone for all their problems while all the while telling people to underinflate their tires (@26 psi)... to avoid rollovers.
Perhaps 26 is too low for Falkens. Not every tire is right for every car. Many tires also have the 'minimum inflation' requirements posted next to the max. Check the side of the tire for this index, or consult a Falken dealer.
If you must go to a higher inflation on the tires, 30-32psi is quite safe. A nominal pressure for most other cars, and well below the max pressure of 44-45psi.
There are other factors which can cause pulling. Dragging brakes for one.|||I would run 30 lbs. in all the tires and you will be fine.|||Check your owners manual and/or usually on the inside of the door or jam. Oh, yeah you said the gas door has it. It should list the size tire and what the pressure should be in it. Do what the car maker said to do. 32 psi is just the general pressure that everyone throws around. Go with 26psi. Believe me the engineers that designed and made the car know more than the "discount tire guy". Usually the tire pressure listed on the tire says "max". Again do what the manufacturer says.
I have a Mitsubishi trk and the manual says to run 26psi for the size tire on it. That's what it put in it.|||Look on the side of the tire, you bought after market tires so whats on your gasdoor may not apply anymore.
Most "pull" complaints are actually due to tire wear issues and are not caused by the alignment - at least not directly. If you are trying to diagnose a "pull" start by cross-rotating the front tires. If the pull goes away or changes direction you know it is a tire problem.|||The spec pressure listed on the side of the tire is the 'maximum' psi the tire can hold. NEVER use this as an indicator. The correct psi for your tires is always set by the manufacturer of the vehicle. In this case, VW wants 26... this is right. Playing with the inflation of the tires can drastically change intended handling, and traction of the vehicle. There will be a placard posted in the glove box, door jamb, console... or as you said the fuel door, which will have the correct vehicle manucaturer inflation specs.
26 psi? Really? Thats quite low for any tire. Many tires can fail due to excessive overheating if they are inflated too low... remember the whole Ford Explorer fiasco? They blamed Firestone for all their problems while all the while telling people to underinflate their tires (@26 psi)... to avoid rollovers.
Perhaps 26 is too low for Falkens. Not every tire is right for every car. Many tires also have the 'minimum inflation' requirements posted next to the max. Check the side of the tire for this index, or consult a Falken dealer.
If you must go to a higher inflation on the tires, 30-32psi is quite safe. A nominal pressure for most other cars, and well below the max pressure of 44-45psi.
There are other factors which can cause pulling. Dragging brakes for one.|||I would run 30 lbs. in all the tires and you will be fine.|||Check your owners manual and/or usually on the inside of the door or jam. Oh, yeah you said the gas door has it. It should list the size tire and what the pressure should be in it. Do what the car maker said to do. 32 psi is just the general pressure that everyone throws around. Go with 26psi. Believe me the engineers that designed and made the car know more than the "discount tire guy". Usually the tire pressure listed on the tire says "max". Again do what the manufacturer says.
I have a Mitsubishi trk and the manual says to run 26psi for the size tire on it. That's what it put in it.|||Look on the side of the tire, you bought after market tires so whats on your gasdoor may not apply anymore.
How much is a 4 wheel car alignment?
Also, where is the best place to get your car alignment done in Lansing, Michigan?? Any recommendations or sharing of previous experience appreciated. The friendly mechanic at Walmart suggested Belle Tire, since their alignments are supposed to be $60... however, read some user reviews on the net and seems a lot of ppl are unsatisfied with their service. How about Discount Tire Co? Thanks.|||firestone is the most reliable and trustworthy but not always the cheapest let me just say you get what you pay for
Where can I buy quality truck tires for a discount?
It's for my 2002 Ford F-150 4 x 4.|||The best place to look for this type of discounts is SearchAllDeals. Just start with a search term like "tires".|||Wal-Mart I have an 04 Van A set of bridgstones were less than 400.00 W/ lifetime balance and rotation.|||Discount Tire Company...I love them!!! Air pressure, flats and rotation done for FREE...for the life time of the tires..~V|||at Tire Rack, also get a coupon at http://www.giantcodes.com/Automotive/Tir鈥?/a> to save some money there|||Pete's Tire and rolling paper emporium. You get so high you don't care about the price
Tire size for 2000 Dodge Dakota?
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota with OEM wheels (I think they're 15x8). The standard tire size for the truck is 235/75R15. Can I put 265/70R15s on? They're specificed as a "plus 0" option on discount tire. Just want to make sure I won't need new wheels.|||the tires are fine to put on them rims, the only thing you may encounter is tires rubbing in wheel wells when you turn
I want to buy some tires for my van? My Dad went to check on prices at three different discount stores and?
went to Good Year to see if they would match the other prices. They told my Dad who doesn't know much about cars that they can't cuz they are so cheap. The reason why they(other discount stores) are so cheap cuz they get the tires from warehouses all over and most of the tires are out dated and don't last long. Now, is it true does tires have dates on them and if so what year should I avoid?|||You might want to try another place, like America's Tire Company or Costco Tire Center. In my experience buying Goodyear branded tires (or others owned by Goodyear) tends to cost a bit more ($20-$40) at a Goodyear tire center than at a third party store like America's Tire or Costco.
As for the tires at other stores not lasting long or being outdated, I don't believe that, they just want you to buy from them. As long as you're buying a quality brand tire you're going to be fine. If a tire is sitting on a vehicle that's not being used then I can understand that you might not want to trust those tire because they suffer from tire rot due to weather and constant stress/pressure on a single side. But in a tire warehouse (like Tire Rack) the tires are kept indoors and they aren't subjected to the stresses of a 1200lb car daily, so I think they'd last really nicely in a warehouse.
And if tires can't hold up to being stored in a warehouse for 2 months, how much more will they hold up when you're driving on them every day in possibly extreme weather conditions?lol
Just stick to reputable brands like BFGoodrich, Michelin, GoodYear, Cooper, etc and you'll be fine. Also a benefit of going to a place like America's Tire, Wal-Mart, or Costco is that those stores are very common around the US so you'll always be able to have your tires serviced for free.|||if they are still in whare houses they are still good, on a bad tire you want to look for dry rot, which is cracks around the edges and side wall rubber, a good set of cheap tries should last at least two years, with proper rotation|||There are dates on them. Its usually near the DOT number. It might be in code form on some tires though. It doesn't matter where you go. All tire dealers will have some old stock if your tire isn't a common tire. Check the date where ever you go.|||I have never heard of that before. but I have had tire dealer's tell me they wont do tire match because they cant make as much money that way.|||yes tires do have things such a dot numbers and this can Track the tire bake to when it was made mo day year place but to tale you just what dat to avoid cant help and no tire don't have a shelf life limit on them only mileage ratings and ply but good year isn't trying to do any think but charge you for the tire you get|||This is one of those things where you get what you pay for. Cheap tires are often times false economy; they don't last long, the warranty is not very good, they are often defective (things like not being truly round ...yes, this does happen, even with new tires) and they are many times made in China.
GoodYear makes excellent tires and will stand behind them as will the dealer you buy them from ...this is why they cost more. I'm not saying buy the GoodYear's but explaining why they cost more and why possibly the dealer is not going to discount them too much. As for what the shop told your dad ...well it sounds to me like a lot of hoo-hah.
Might I suggest you check out Discount Tires(discounttire.com) and see if they have a shop near you. They also have an online "catalog" of the tires they carry so you can see all the particulars of a tire They sell a full range of tires; low priced cheapos to highly specialized ones. Their prices are very good and they offer a very good warranty. I have used them a lot and have been very satisfied with them. Wal-Mart is also a good place to find good, reasonably priced tires.
The big discount tire shops (like Discount Tires, Wal-Mart, etc) typically sell in such volume they don't have "leftover" out of date tires; they pretty much sell enough to keep a good turnover in their stock ...and the volume is what allows them to give better pricing.|||There are indeed date codes on tires. You have to be careful if you are going to buy tires from a discount outlet. There tires could indeed be "new", however they could also be 5+ years old. What you want to look for is the DOT number. All tires rated for highway use MUST have a DOT number on them. On one sidewall, down near the bead area (where the tire seats on the wheel) look for the markings, DOT followed by a series of letters and numbers. The only thing you are concerned with is the very last FOUR digits. XXXX the first 2 numbers of the series tells you what week of the year they were manufactured. So those numbers will range from 01 to 52 inclusive. The last two digits tell you what year they were made. If they were made this year 09 last year 08. Personally I would not buy any tires older than 1 year. Since we are nearing the end of '09 I would not purchase '08's personally. There is nothing wrong with them but I know tires I purchase will last 5-7 years so I want them "fresh" so to speak. I would recommend you stay away from Chinese tires. While my knowledge of tires extends mostly to commercial and light truck I must assume that Chinese passenger tires are constructed to the same standards as their commercial tires, and that warranties are as difficult to obtain for passenger tires as well as the commercial tires. As for my recommendations on brands? I can only recommend what I have experience with. I would not recommend Goodyear (very good tires, GREAT tires really but personally not worth the extra money you pay for the name) Yokohama is a very good brand, Japanese owned not chinese and they stand behind their product and act quickly when problems do arise. Cooper are also a good option at a much lower price then Goodyear. Cooper passenger tires are still currently made in the US. BF Goodrich are also very good, but approaching the price range of Goodyear. If money is not an option for your Father then go with Goodyear or Michelin.|||Tires are like anything else - you usually get what you pay for. Those supposed "discount" places quote you cheap prices to get you in the door by quoting you cheap product. The lowest price does not by any means necessarily mean the best value. Often paying just a few dollars more will get you a tire that lasts significantly longer, gets better traction, is quieter, etc, etc, etc... If all your dad does is shop for the cheapest tires over time he is going to end up spending a lot of money on tires.
Select the best value that fits your budget, not the cheapest thing you can find. Remember, tires are the most important piece of safety equipment on the vehicle. What is more important, your life or your wallet?
As for the tires at other stores not lasting long or being outdated, I don't believe that, they just want you to buy from them. As long as you're buying a quality brand tire you're going to be fine. If a tire is sitting on a vehicle that's not being used then I can understand that you might not want to trust those tire because they suffer from tire rot due to weather and constant stress/pressure on a single side. But in a tire warehouse (like Tire Rack) the tires are kept indoors and they aren't subjected to the stresses of a 1200lb car daily, so I think they'd last really nicely in a warehouse.
And if tires can't hold up to being stored in a warehouse for 2 months, how much more will they hold up when you're driving on them every day in possibly extreme weather conditions?lol
Just stick to reputable brands like BFGoodrich, Michelin, GoodYear, Cooper, etc and you'll be fine. Also a benefit of going to a place like America's Tire, Wal-Mart, or Costco is that those stores are very common around the US so you'll always be able to have your tires serviced for free.|||if they are still in whare houses they are still good, on a bad tire you want to look for dry rot, which is cracks around the edges and side wall rubber, a good set of cheap tries should last at least two years, with proper rotation|||There are dates on them. Its usually near the DOT number. It might be in code form on some tires though. It doesn't matter where you go. All tire dealers will have some old stock if your tire isn't a common tire. Check the date where ever you go.|||I have never heard of that before. but I have had tire dealer's tell me they wont do tire match because they cant make as much money that way.|||yes tires do have things such a dot numbers and this can Track the tire bake to when it was made mo day year place but to tale you just what dat to avoid cant help and no tire don't have a shelf life limit on them only mileage ratings and ply but good year isn't trying to do any think but charge you for the tire you get|||This is one of those things where you get what you pay for. Cheap tires are often times false economy; they don't last long, the warranty is not very good, they are often defective (things like not being truly round ...yes, this does happen, even with new tires) and they are many times made in China.
GoodYear makes excellent tires and will stand behind them as will the dealer you buy them from ...this is why they cost more. I'm not saying buy the GoodYear's but explaining why they cost more and why possibly the dealer is not going to discount them too much. As for what the shop told your dad ...well it sounds to me like a lot of hoo-hah.
Might I suggest you check out Discount Tires(discounttire.com) and see if they have a shop near you. They also have an online "catalog" of the tires they carry so you can see all the particulars of a tire They sell a full range of tires; low priced cheapos to highly specialized ones. Their prices are very good and they offer a very good warranty. I have used them a lot and have been very satisfied with them. Wal-Mart is also a good place to find good, reasonably priced tires.
The big discount tire shops (like Discount Tires, Wal-Mart, etc) typically sell in such volume they don't have "leftover" out of date tires; they pretty much sell enough to keep a good turnover in their stock ...and the volume is what allows them to give better pricing.|||There are indeed date codes on tires. You have to be careful if you are going to buy tires from a discount outlet. There tires could indeed be "new", however they could also be 5+ years old. What you want to look for is the DOT number. All tires rated for highway use MUST have a DOT number on them. On one sidewall, down near the bead area (where the tire seats on the wheel) look for the markings, DOT followed by a series of letters and numbers. The only thing you are concerned with is the very last FOUR digits. XXXX the first 2 numbers of the series tells you what week of the year they were manufactured. So those numbers will range from 01 to 52 inclusive. The last two digits tell you what year they were made. If they were made this year 09 last year 08. Personally I would not buy any tires older than 1 year. Since we are nearing the end of '09 I would not purchase '08's personally. There is nothing wrong with them but I know tires I purchase will last 5-7 years so I want them "fresh" so to speak. I would recommend you stay away from Chinese tires. While my knowledge of tires extends mostly to commercial and light truck I must assume that Chinese passenger tires are constructed to the same standards as their commercial tires, and that warranties are as difficult to obtain for passenger tires as well as the commercial tires. As for my recommendations on brands? I can only recommend what I have experience with. I would not recommend Goodyear (very good tires, GREAT tires really but personally not worth the extra money you pay for the name) Yokohama is a very good brand, Japanese owned not chinese and they stand behind their product and act quickly when problems do arise. Cooper are also a good option at a much lower price then Goodyear. Cooper passenger tires are still currently made in the US. BF Goodrich are also very good, but approaching the price range of Goodyear. If money is not an option for your Father then go with Goodyear or Michelin.|||Tires are like anything else - you usually get what you pay for. Those supposed "discount" places quote you cheap prices to get you in the door by quoting you cheap product. The lowest price does not by any means necessarily mean the best value. Often paying just a few dollars more will get you a tire that lasts significantly longer, gets better traction, is quieter, etc, etc, etc... If all your dad does is shop for the cheapest tires over time he is going to end up spending a lot of money on tires.
Select the best value that fits your budget, not the cheapest thing you can find. Remember, tires are the most important piece of safety equipment on the vehicle. What is more important, your life or your wallet?
What is the measurement for a 5 lug bolt pattern, stock 1986 pontiac parisienne wheel?
Where can I find alloy wheels/rims to fit this vehicle? I've already tried discount tire, ntb, tire rack, etc., etc. The sites all respond, nothing available for this vehicle.|||The pattern is 5x 4.75 A very standard gm bolt pattern. I would try salvage yards, but there are other places online.
Example: http://www.racepages.com/parts/wheel/pon鈥?/a>|||If you can't find wheels for that car, you're dealing with extremely incompetent retailers.
I would say GM produced 100 million cars with that bolt pattern, if not more.
Hotdog is right - it's 4 and 3/4.|||if it is a wagon it is 5x5 bolt pattern. look at trucks and vans
go to junkyard
if you have a sedan, wheels from like a 80s camaro or trans am
or maybe grand national those cars came with nice stock rims that woukld fit your car go to junkyard|||You have the right answers so far....
I will add that your Car is the Same as a 1986 Chevy Cop car
Better known as Chevrolet Caprice
Every place you've listed have wheels in the catalogs from 15" all the way up too 22" that will fit your car...
Example: http://www.racepages.com/parts/wheel/pon鈥?/a>|||If you can't find wheels for that car, you're dealing with extremely incompetent retailers.
I would say GM produced 100 million cars with that bolt pattern, if not more.
Hotdog is right - it's 4 and 3/4.|||if it is a wagon it is 5x5 bolt pattern. look at trucks and vans
go to junkyard
if you have a sedan, wheels from like a 80s camaro or trans am
or maybe grand national those cars came with nice stock rims that woukld fit your car go to junkyard|||You have the right answers so far....
I will add that your Car is the Same as a 1986 Chevy Cop car
Better known as Chevrolet Caprice
Every place you've listed have wheels in the catalogs from 15" all the way up too 22" that will fit your car...
Is it worth to buy an old tire.. or is it waste of money?
Hello all, hey I was just wondering if I could save some bucks, Do you know how much a 205 65 R 15 USED tire (or tires if discounted when I buy more than one) cost in fair condition, and how much is it to balance a tire? Thanks. Have a nice day!|||USED tire is OK to buy if it is in good condition and not worn out. Check local junk yards or go onto craiglist to see if anyone is selling it. For balancing call Belle Tire or Discount Tire auto shops for quotes, it shouldn't be much. Good luck|||I always buy what we call "part worn" here in the UK, I currently have a set of Continental tyres on my Volvo T5 which new would cost $250 each and cost me $50 each, if the garage you use have part worn tyres inspect them and choose if possible matching treads.
Is it worth to buy an old tire.. or is it waste of money?
Hello all, hey I was just wondering if I could save some bucks, Do you know how much a 205 65 R 15 USED tire (or tires if discounted when I buy more than one) cost in fair condition, and how much is it to balance a tire? Thanks. Have a nice day!|||The question really is too vague to give you an exact answer. However i can tell you that if you deal with an honest shop, buying used tires is not a big deal. I once bought a set of used tires from les schwab and one of them blew out on the freeway and damn near killed me. I showed les schab my receipt and they gave me full credit back and sold me into a set of new tires. So obviously new is better because you don't know where used tires have been but if your shop will back the used tires then it is way cheaper to go with used tires. I buy all my tires from les schwab because they come with a free warranty. They do free flats, rotates, balances, air checks, and inspections. i once tried to save money by using Costco. but in the end i spent more money. there tires were about $50 cheaper but they could not fix the balance on them. i went in 4 times and the truck still vibrates. I finally got fed up and went to les schwab and they did something called a road force balance and fixed the problem. they told me normally it would cost about $100 but they sold it to me for the price of a normal balance which was $50. Ironically the amount of money i saved by buying crappy Costco tires.|||I would advise against buying used tires - you never know what they went through.
If available, go for the retreaded tires - they are thoroughly stripped and checked before being processed, cost about half the new tire and usually come with some sort of (written) warranty.
For accurate pricing, shop around in your area.|||If it's all you can afford, why not? Just look them over very close. Make sure there is enough tread left. You can easily see the wear bars if they are too worn. Check the side walls very close. That is critical. Nothing can repair a side wall. I have seen tires that still had lots of tread left but they were cracked from the sun. This is known as dry rot. This is not a tire to buy. Always buy 2 matching tires unless you happen to find an exact match for your tires.
Mounting %26amp; balancing is fairly cheap. Call around. Some service stations are still out there. That's your best shot. Some tire shops will do it as well but they prefer that you buy from them.|||depends on how much they want to sell it to you for lol.
usually based on tread depth left. anywhere from $10 all the way up to $20 below retail for a new one is what I've seen based on how good condition the tire is in.
again, balancing varies. walmart is generally cheapest. $7.50/tire lifetime.|||It is never a good idea to buy used because you won't know if there are underlying defects in the tyre. Nearly all used tyres or "runners" come from scrap cars. If you were to see the treatment they get then you would not even think about buying used. My advice would be to buy the best new tyres that you can afford|||it depends on how much they are asking for it. anything that,s used your taking a chance on them. i would say a used tire with a good bit of tread on it would run you about 20 bucks at a junk yard. i pay 7 bucks a tire to get them balanced if i already have the tire off. i expect it,s more if they have to take it off the car and put it back on.
If available, go for the retreaded tires - they are thoroughly stripped and checked before being processed, cost about half the new tire and usually come with some sort of (written) warranty.
For accurate pricing, shop around in your area.|||If it's all you can afford, why not? Just look them over very close. Make sure there is enough tread left. You can easily see the wear bars if they are too worn. Check the side walls very close. That is critical. Nothing can repair a side wall. I have seen tires that still had lots of tread left but they were cracked from the sun. This is known as dry rot. This is not a tire to buy. Always buy 2 matching tires unless you happen to find an exact match for your tires.
Mounting %26amp; balancing is fairly cheap. Call around. Some service stations are still out there. That's your best shot. Some tire shops will do it as well but they prefer that you buy from them.|||depends on how much they want to sell it to you for lol.
usually based on tread depth left. anywhere from $10 all the way up to $20 below retail for a new one is what I've seen based on how good condition the tire is in.
again, balancing varies. walmart is generally cheapest. $7.50/tire lifetime.|||It is never a good idea to buy used because you won't know if there are underlying defects in the tyre. Nearly all used tyres or "runners" come from scrap cars. If you were to see the treatment they get then you would not even think about buying used. My advice would be to buy the best new tyres that you can afford|||it depends on how much they are asking for it. anything that,s used your taking a chance on them. i would say a used tire with a good bit of tread on it would run you about 20 bucks at a junk yard. i pay 7 bucks a tire to get them balanced if i already have the tire off. i expect it,s more if they have to take it off the car and put it back on.
Do you have to get all work done by a the dealership to keep the warranty in effect?
I understand stuff like engine and such, but what about scheduled maintenance, oil changes, and tire rotations? The dealership wants to charge me $20 to rotate my tires and NTB or Discount Tire will do it for free!|||Warranty in effect as long as you get a receipt (and keep it to show proof) of services being done at the proper interval.
Make sure your work order shows the mileage that the vehicle was serviced at.|||No work does not have to be done at the dealership.
You must keep all of the receipts for the work and keep accurate reconds when it was done.|||If you have all receipts with regular oil changes, the original warranty should be still in effect. If the dealer finds the problem was caused by improper repair or not original parts, they can refuse warranty for certain components.|||Nope it's law that unless the manufacturer does it for free, all required maintainance can be performed anywhere you wish as long as you have recipts that show date/milage and there's no evidence of fraud on the repeair orders (such as repair orders with numbers pretty close to each other for work done months apart) It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
However, if the work done by others does cause a problem that can be linked to the other shops work, then technically the other shop is liable for the damage, not the manufacturer|||Absolutely not. You can do it any where or even your self if you keep reciepts and document all work done.
Make sure your work order shows the mileage that the vehicle was serviced at.|||No work does not have to be done at the dealership.
You must keep all of the receipts for the work and keep accurate reconds when it was done.|||If you have all receipts with regular oil changes, the original warranty should be still in effect. If the dealer finds the problem was caused by improper repair or not original parts, they can refuse warranty for certain components.|||Nope it's law that unless the manufacturer does it for free, all required maintainance can be performed anywhere you wish as long as you have recipts that show date/milage and there's no evidence of fraud on the repeair orders (such as repair orders with numbers pretty close to each other for work done months apart) It's called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act
However, if the work done by others does cause a problem that can be linked to the other shops work, then technically the other shop is liable for the damage, not the manufacturer|||Absolutely not. You can do it any where or even your self if you keep reciepts and document all work done.
How long do "plugs" keep tires inflated? Are they a pernament fix?
I had a nail one of my quad tires, I took it to discount tire and they plugged it for free, how long will this keep it sealed? Is it a pernament fix/?|||Sometimes in ATV and riding lawn mower tires plugging can be used because the tires themselves are so thin and the sealing liner of the tire doesn't take patching very well. The only proper way to fix a tire is to dismount, inspect for damage and then use a combination plug patch that not only seals the leak but fills the hole through the tire. Plugging or patching alone is not satisfactory by the new standards for highway use tires.
In your case it will keep the tire sealed until the plug dries out, or it flings out or you wear the tire out. Its a crap shoot.|||Just hope my mechanic at Walmart did a good job!
2 months, so far so good.|||Heck I ran out of plugs just the last weekend,
i think my wife aims for nails and drywall screws.
I once ran over a overhead door roller.
That's about 400 times larger than a nail.
I wrapped four rope seals around an installation tool, and shoved them in all at once.
I burnt that tire to the cords, and the rope plugs never gave out.|||It depends on how large the puncture wound was. If it was a small hole %26amp; they used a radial tire plug, it will last a long time|||Most of the time it is a permanent fix....|||Yes, if done properly they last as long as the tire.|||It depends on where the plug is. Usually if it is in the sidewall, they will have to be replaced sooner than if you had it in the tread. Rough riding, considering it is a quad may reduce the life of the tire. If I were you, every so often take the tire back to the tire shop for inspection. No need to have a blowout while you're out riding.|||Yes ought to hold for a long time if not the life of the tire.|||I have had plenty of experience with having plugs and patches put in my tires, on many vehicles, and yes it works. People will probably tell you that you will need to buy tires in the future, but as long as they still go down the road the way you want them too, the plugs will do just fine|||The plug will provide a temp fix that wont last the full life of the tire, learned that one the hard way. Your best bet in that kind of a situation is to have the tire removed and have it patched or galvanized.|||It's permanent until it falls out while you are driving, the proper way to fix it is to take the tire off the rim and have it patched.|||i know i had them plugged on my car and i ran the tire out and it was still in there.
In your case it will keep the tire sealed until the plug dries out, or it flings out or you wear the tire out. Its a crap shoot.|||Just hope my mechanic at Walmart did a good job!
2 months, so far so good.|||Heck I ran out of plugs just the last weekend,
i think my wife aims for nails and drywall screws.
I once ran over a overhead door roller.
That's about 400 times larger than a nail.
I wrapped four rope seals around an installation tool, and shoved them in all at once.
I burnt that tire to the cords, and the rope plugs never gave out.|||It depends on how large the puncture wound was. If it was a small hole %26amp; they used a radial tire plug, it will last a long time|||Most of the time it is a permanent fix....|||Yes, if done properly they last as long as the tire.|||It depends on where the plug is. Usually if it is in the sidewall, they will have to be replaced sooner than if you had it in the tread. Rough riding, considering it is a quad may reduce the life of the tire. If I were you, every so often take the tire back to the tire shop for inspection. No need to have a blowout while you're out riding.|||Yes ought to hold for a long time if not the life of the tire.|||I have had plenty of experience with having plugs and patches put in my tires, on many vehicles, and yes it works. People will probably tell you that you will need to buy tires in the future, but as long as they still go down the road the way you want them too, the plugs will do just fine|||The plug will provide a temp fix that wont last the full life of the tire, learned that one the hard way. Your best bet in that kind of a situation is to have the tire removed and have it patched or galvanized.|||It's permanent until it falls out while you are driving, the proper way to fix it is to take the tire off the rim and have it patched.|||i know i had them plugged on my car and i ran the tire out and it was still in there.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
How much lift is needed for 37in tires and 20in rims on 2001 dodge ram 2500 4x4 extended cab???
I have 35's on 16's with maybe 2 inches to play with when fully turned. The guys told me it will fit at Discount Tire. So if it doesnt im going to be pissed just want to know what i gota do to make em fit. They say on my truck i need a 5in lift to fit 35's and 16'' rims in there, so do i just need a 2in body lift?|||are you running 35's with no lift at all???
I run 33s on my '02 2500 4x4 quad cab diesel (same body as yours) with no lift and I might could go to 35s without a lift but it would be close...
I would think you would need at least a 2 inch body lift to clear the 37s but I would also think a 5 inch lift would clear easily without the 2 inch body lift (but the body lift is much easier to install and cheaper too) ...
good luck!|||I would go ahead and out a 5 or 6 inch suspension lift on there. That way if they dont fit all you got to do is out a body lift on which is easier thaan a susp lift. I would have to say you prolly need a total of 8 to 9 inches.|||Probably more like 10 or 12 all together|||If you don't have a diesel than you best have a lot of gas money%26gt;Like 4 to5 mpg%26gt; It's a major body lift to run those tires%26gt;
I run 33s on my '02 2500 4x4 quad cab diesel (same body as yours) with no lift and I might could go to 35s without a lift but it would be close...
I would think you would need at least a 2 inch body lift to clear the 37s but I would also think a 5 inch lift would clear easily without the 2 inch body lift (but the body lift is much easier to install and cheaper too) ...
good luck!|||I would go ahead and out a 5 or 6 inch suspension lift on there. That way if they dont fit all you got to do is out a body lift on which is easier thaan a susp lift. I would have to say you prolly need a total of 8 to 9 inches.|||Probably more like 10 or 12 all together|||If you don't have a diesel than you best have a lot of gas money%26gt;Like 4 to5 mpg%26gt; It's a major body lift to run those tires%26gt;
Where in the Detroit Metro area can I get new tires at a reasonable price?
I've checked all over but the prices seem a bit steep. (Belle Tire, PepBoys, Goodyear, Discount Tire, etc.). I'm not looking for a huge discount but something reasonable; at least $75 or under per tire. I'll even look for coupons online. Oh, the tires are for a 2008 Ford Fusion SE 4 cly.|||I;m not looking up to see what size tire is in a ford fusion. Why don't you edit your question and add the tire size. Sam's Club may be your best bet. You can count on $10 a tire for mounting and balancing.
You can also find a shop that installs those stupid custom 20 some inch rims. Many times, they sell the used tires that come off the cars they change them out on.
You can also find a shop that installs those stupid custom 20 some inch rims. Many times, they sell the used tires that come off the cars they change them out on.
What size of tires does my 1998 Nissan Altima need if i got 18in rims?
The rims are Motegi Racing wheels with a 40 offset and 4 lug 18in.. i went to discount tire and they said 215/40/18 or 205/40/18? is this correct.|||Both will work, but a 215/40/18 will be closer to your stock wheel/tire diameter and thus will give you a more accurate speedometer reading.
I have a sidewall bubble on a goodyear eagle ls2 tire?
the tire is 5 months old and has about 5k miles on it.
i know i didn't hit any pot holes or rough roads to cause an impact bubble, but the audi dealer doesn't believe me.
do you think i'll get a discount from goodyear for a new tire, or will i get a new tire for free because it might be caused by a defect?|||Yes you did. That sort of damage is caused by a sharp impact and only by a sharp impact. It is not a defect.|||Take it to a Goodyear dealer and have them look at it.An EXPERIENCED tire tech will know if it is an impact break or a separation. Sounds like you need a new tire any way so when they get it off the vehicle they can cut it open and inspect further to diagnose what happened if there's any doubt. 9.5 times out of 10 though they can tell just by looking at it.Good year should warranty the tire if it is new as you say it is. Reciept or not.Side walls dont just get bubbles for nothing. Usually it is caused by an impact of some sort and very rarely a defective tire.|||You can try but doubt it, it would be the same, if you have gotten a puncture that was to close to the sidewall to repair typically means your out of a tire, unless you have a tire warranty.And its hard to say you didn't hit anything,the damage had to come from some where, in the future i would check your tire pressure as well, over inflated tires are pron to more damage from the road.Gl|||You say the tire is 5 months old with about 5k miles on it. Is this a new car? If not don't take it to the Audi dealer take it to a Goodyear dealer with a receipt from when you bought it. If it is a new car I would still take it to a Goodyear dealer to have them look at it and see if they can either warranty the tire or call the Service Manager of the Audi dealer. Of all the receipts I trash tires, batteries and oil changes I keep in the vehicle at all times for warranty purposes plus it helps the value at trade in time if you can show maintenance records.|||best bet is to call Goodyear's customer service, explain your situation, car dealers are hurting and ain't getting up off nothing if they don't have to, there barely staying in business as it is. where as Goodyear is doing very well and may want to keep your business in the future, it's all customer satisfaction in that realm, and one tire means nothing to them, but then again Audi may not be your first choice for new car next time will it.. my dad had a Goodyear separate on his truck and tore up the molding and paint on his truck, guess what? they payed for repair and not one but 4 new tires, but then again he knows who to ***** at.|||My opinion is you are in-titled to a new tire from Goodyear or Audi whoever the warranty falls on. Side wall bubbles are due to improper construction of the tire layers and/or rubber layering. Do not give up if the first Rep doesn't help. Keep climbing the ladder, I have never gone away with nothing if I keep asking for someone higher up. *****They don't want you to bad mouth their product/business, so if they argue at all just tell them that you won't be able to recommend their product and might have to suggest against it due to the negative experience you have had***** As a rep before... We were instructed to resist to the point of negative publicity !! Messed up I know but that is another way they save money at the expense of the consumer!!!! GOOD LUCK AND DON'T GIVE UP!!!!!!! They will give you what you want if you fight hard enough.......#1 Customer is eventually right.|||Defects on tires are only covered on the top treaded area. All sidewall bubbles are caused by some sort of impact. They wont give you a new tire, but if you call goodyear and start a claim, they might give you some goodwill credit towards a new tire.|||My experience with the audi dealer is they wont ever give up money unless you bought an r8 with cash. There is a slim chance you can get them to give you a discount becuase they will blame it on you. I would first call Goodyear and see what they do.|||Bad tires aren't unheard of... But of course, no one will want to believe that it's not your fault. I would make some calls, talk to supervisors and see what happens. The squeaky wheel gets the grease...|||good y will perhaps be able to tell what caused the damage BUT dont expect a diss count on a new tyrestraight away. i would think u will pay F/P and if they find its not your fault then they will refund you.
i know i didn't hit any pot holes or rough roads to cause an impact bubble, but the audi dealer doesn't believe me.
do you think i'll get a discount from goodyear for a new tire, or will i get a new tire for free because it might be caused by a defect?|||Yes you did. That sort of damage is caused by a sharp impact and only by a sharp impact. It is not a defect.|||Take it to a Goodyear dealer and have them look at it.An EXPERIENCED tire tech will know if it is an impact break or a separation. Sounds like you need a new tire any way so when they get it off the vehicle they can cut it open and inspect further to diagnose what happened if there's any doubt. 9.5 times out of 10 though they can tell just by looking at it.Good year should warranty the tire if it is new as you say it is. Reciept or not.Side walls dont just get bubbles for nothing. Usually it is caused by an impact of some sort and very rarely a defective tire.|||You can try but doubt it, it would be the same, if you have gotten a puncture that was to close to the sidewall to repair typically means your out of a tire, unless you have a tire warranty.And its hard to say you didn't hit anything,the damage had to come from some where, in the future i would check your tire pressure as well, over inflated tires are pron to more damage from the road.Gl|||You say the tire is 5 months old with about 5k miles on it. Is this a new car? If not don't take it to the Audi dealer take it to a Goodyear dealer with a receipt from when you bought it. If it is a new car I would still take it to a Goodyear dealer to have them look at it and see if they can either warranty the tire or call the Service Manager of the Audi dealer. Of all the receipts I trash tires, batteries and oil changes I keep in the vehicle at all times for warranty purposes plus it helps the value at trade in time if you can show maintenance records.|||best bet is to call Goodyear's customer service, explain your situation, car dealers are hurting and ain't getting up off nothing if they don't have to, there barely staying in business as it is. where as Goodyear is doing very well and may want to keep your business in the future, it's all customer satisfaction in that realm, and one tire means nothing to them, but then again Audi may not be your first choice for new car next time will it.. my dad had a Goodyear separate on his truck and tore up the molding and paint on his truck, guess what? they payed for repair and not one but 4 new tires, but then again he knows who to ***** at.|||My opinion is you are in-titled to a new tire from Goodyear or Audi whoever the warranty falls on. Side wall bubbles are due to improper construction of the tire layers and/or rubber layering. Do not give up if the first Rep doesn't help. Keep climbing the ladder, I have never gone away with nothing if I keep asking for someone higher up. *****They don't want you to bad mouth their product/business, so if they argue at all just tell them that you won't be able to recommend their product and might have to suggest against it due to the negative experience you have had***** As a rep before... We were instructed to resist to the point of negative publicity !! Messed up I know but that is another way they save money at the expense of the consumer!!!! GOOD LUCK AND DON'T GIVE UP!!!!!!! They will give you what you want if you fight hard enough.......#1 Customer is eventually right.|||Defects on tires are only covered on the top treaded area. All sidewall bubbles are caused by some sort of impact. They wont give you a new tire, but if you call goodyear and start a claim, they might give you some goodwill credit towards a new tire.|||My experience with the audi dealer is they wont ever give up money unless you bought an r8 with cash. There is a slim chance you can get them to give you a discount becuase they will blame it on you. I would first call Goodyear and see what they do.|||Bad tires aren't unheard of... But of course, no one will want to believe that it's not your fault. I would make some calls, talk to supervisors and see what happens. The squeaky wheel gets the grease...|||good y will perhaps be able to tell what caused the damage BUT dont expect a diss count on a new tyrestraight away. i would think u will pay F/P and if they find its not your fault then they will refund you.
What type of tires should I get for my Mazda 3s?
I have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 17 inch wheels and do not know much about tires. I am currently looking at Kumho Ecsta Asx, which are all season. Does anyone know if these are good tires? Or would someone recommend someone recommend another type of tire? Also is Kumho a good brand? I am buying them at Discount Tires i think, and they offer a warranty for $62, whcih will cover them up to 3/32" or 3 years. If i do not get that, then if something does happen to them, it is prorated for how much they will cover. Is this worth purchasing? Thanks for your help.|||Well, to start Kumho is a great tire to go with. I have Kumho Escta Supra 712's on my 2000 Si Coupe and I love them. Before that I had Toyo Proxy 4's and Goodyear Eagle F1's. Those were also great tires but for the price and performace, Kumho is an excellent choice.
You may just want to take a look at the Bridgestone Potenza, Michelin Pilot, or the Dunlop SP Sport. All those are great Ultra High Performance All-Season Tires that are similar to the Kumho Ecsta ASX.
I also use tirerack.com to order all my tires. They have excellent customer service and the shipping is fast as well. Good Luck with your tire selection.|||I sell tires at the mazda dealership I work at. I have put on many sets of the Kumho Ecsta ASX. They are a good tire at a great price. For a little more money you can get some BFG GForce Sport. Another tire I have sold for the 17" Mazda 3. There are other choices out there but in our area people are more concerned with the price than what they are actually getting.|||The Kumho Ecsta Asx is a great tire for the price. I put a set on a Mustang GT last night. There are better tires but you may have to pay more for them.|||sports tires
You may just want to take a look at the Bridgestone Potenza, Michelin Pilot, or the Dunlop SP Sport. All those are great Ultra High Performance All-Season Tires that are similar to the Kumho Ecsta ASX.
I also use tirerack.com to order all my tires. They have excellent customer service and the shipping is fast as well. Good Luck with your tire selection.|||I sell tires at the mazda dealership I work at. I have put on many sets of the Kumho Ecsta ASX. They are a good tire at a great price. For a little more money you can get some BFG GForce Sport. Another tire I have sold for the 17" Mazda 3. There are other choices out there but in our area people are more concerned with the price than what they are actually getting.|||The Kumho Ecsta Asx is a great tire for the price. I put a set on a Mustang GT last night. There are better tires but you may have to pay more for them.|||sports tires
What is your opinion about where new tires should go when you buy only 2?
Whenever I buy only 2 new tires Discount Tire says to put them on the back so you don't have oversteer. I say put them on the front so you can brake good in an emergency. Where do you think the 2 new or best tires should go?|||Raybdog, Misha, and Rea have it right.
I admit I always got this backwards, too!
I had always thought that if it's a front wheel drive car, then surely I want my good tires on the front, right?
However, when installing 2 new tires with a deeper tread than the other two, they should be placed in the rear to minimize the chance of oversteer.
What is oversteer?
OVERSTEER:
The tendency of a vehicle to steer into a sharper turn than the driver intends, sometimes with a thrusting of the rear of the vehicle to the outside. Example a vehicle is said to have an oversteer condition during a turn when the rear tires have less grip on the driving service than the front tires have. The tendency is for the rear of the vehicle to slide out toward the outside of the turn. Oversteer is also referred to by the term Loose.
The tire manufacturer's have been saying for years that the better tires, when they are not matched, should go on the rear of the car. I had just never heard it until recently when my tire guy informed me.
They maintain that it's all about control and you have less control in the rear, so the better tires should be back there so you don't lose control/oversteer. (You don't want the back end coming around on you!)
Check out some links I dug up, especially that last one...
http://cartalk.com/board/showflat.php?Nu鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/t鈥?/a>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tires
(Look under tread section.)
(I was busy typing this long email and Misha beat me to the punch on the video!... EXCELLENT link, my friend.)
http://www.michelinman.com/care/reartire鈥?/a>
(Download the larger 9 meg video if you have high speed internet. It's worth it.)
Go with what your tire stores and tire manufactuer's are telling you and not what your friend, your dad, or some so-called answer's expert says. That includes me.|||If your car is front wheel drive, put your new tires on the front if its rear wheel drive put the new tires on the rear. However if you have an all wheel drive, or a 4WD vehicle always buy 4 new tires as if you only buy 2 your defeating the purpose of having all wheel drive or 4WD, and most tire companies won't sell you only 2 tires for a 4WD or AWD.|||The manufacturers now recommend putting 2 new tires on the rear.
Here's their reasoning: If the older tires are on the front, and one of them fails, you're likely to understeer if it happens on a curve. That would put you into a frontal collision off the side of the road situation. Frontal collisions in late-model, seat-belted, air-bagged cars are safer than side collisions, which is what would happen if the old tires were on the rear and one failed on a curve (causing oversteer or "spin out").
Personally, having grown up driving in snow and ice, I know how to correct oversteer, and so I always put the new tires on the front (and have had to argue for quite a while with tire salesmen to get them to break their "rules").
Tire companies are playing the numbers game here, and hoping to minimize the injuries that might occur from people oversteering off the road and slamming sideways into a tree, where belts and bags don't offer as much protection.|||They go on the back! I like you thought the front, but I was told by my Audi dealership to put them on the back! Hey, it's Audi....they should know!|||Buzzy is wrong. #1The fact is the manufacturer says put new tires on the rear and #2 all of the control is not with the steering of the car.
Hey buzzy, watch a couple NASCAR races and learn the difference between tight and loose and the causes.
Personally I always put two new tires on the front and have the front tires moved to the back. I don't let the tires get worn to the point of being un safe before replacing them. The steer tires always seem to wear faster ( assuming everything else on the car is in good shape ) because of turning them while sitting still etc.|||The fact is that they should always go on the front. And there are some strong reasons why, the primary one being that all control of the vehicle occurs at the front. Steering, braking, turns, etc. If you put the older tires on the front and they are not worn even, then you throw off caster and camber. But the big issue is that an older, or worn tire is more prone to failure than a brand new one. If you blow out a front tire at 70 mph, you have got big trouble on your hands. If you have a blowout on a rear tire, you can safely slow to a stop without veering out of control.|||i always go with the drive tires. so if its fwd put them on the front, if its rwd then put them on the back.|||This always causes a debate. For 30 plus years I used to believe that putting new tires on the front axle is the right solution, but this video from Michelin converted me...
http://www.funandsafedriving.com/ftopict鈥?/a>|||Hey, Mr. Mad, I say, why buy only 2? Spend that extra cash and do what most ppl do, buy 3 and get the 4th one free!!! Hope that helps.|||Hey buzz is right always put new tires on the front unless you are driving backwards, That is where you control the car I don't care what they say
I admit I always got this backwards, too!
I had always thought that if it's a front wheel drive car, then surely I want my good tires on the front, right?
However, when installing 2 new tires with a deeper tread than the other two, they should be placed in the rear to minimize the chance of oversteer.
What is oversteer?
OVERSTEER:
The tendency of a vehicle to steer into a sharper turn than the driver intends, sometimes with a thrusting of the rear of the vehicle to the outside. Example a vehicle is said to have an oversteer condition during a turn when the rear tires have less grip on the driving service than the front tires have. The tendency is for the rear of the vehicle to slide out toward the outside of the turn. Oversteer is also referred to by the term Loose.
The tire manufacturer's have been saying for years that the better tires, when they are not matched, should go on the rear of the car. I had just never heard it until recently when my tire guy informed me.
They maintain that it's all about control and you have less control in the rear, so the better tires should be back there so you don't lose control/oversteer. (You don't want the back end coming around on you!)
Check out some links I dug up, especially that last one...
http://cartalk.com/board/showflat.php?Nu鈥?/a>
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/t鈥?/a>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tires
(Look under tread section.)
(I was busy typing this long email and Misha beat me to the punch on the video!... EXCELLENT link, my friend.)
http://www.michelinman.com/care/reartire鈥?/a>
(Download the larger 9 meg video if you have high speed internet. It's worth it.)
Go with what your tire stores and tire manufactuer's are telling you and not what your friend, your dad, or some so-called answer's expert says. That includes me.|||If your car is front wheel drive, put your new tires on the front if its rear wheel drive put the new tires on the rear. However if you have an all wheel drive, or a 4WD vehicle always buy 4 new tires as if you only buy 2 your defeating the purpose of having all wheel drive or 4WD, and most tire companies won't sell you only 2 tires for a 4WD or AWD.|||The manufacturers now recommend putting 2 new tires on the rear.
Here's their reasoning: If the older tires are on the front, and one of them fails, you're likely to understeer if it happens on a curve. That would put you into a frontal collision off the side of the road situation. Frontal collisions in late-model, seat-belted, air-bagged cars are safer than side collisions, which is what would happen if the old tires were on the rear and one failed on a curve (causing oversteer or "spin out").
Personally, having grown up driving in snow and ice, I know how to correct oversteer, and so I always put the new tires on the front (and have had to argue for quite a while with tire salesmen to get them to break their "rules").
Tire companies are playing the numbers game here, and hoping to minimize the injuries that might occur from people oversteering off the road and slamming sideways into a tree, where belts and bags don't offer as much protection.|||They go on the back! I like you thought the front, but I was told by my Audi dealership to put them on the back! Hey, it's Audi....they should know!|||Buzzy is wrong. #1The fact is the manufacturer says put new tires on the rear and #2 all of the control is not with the steering of the car.
Hey buzzy, watch a couple NASCAR races and learn the difference between tight and loose and the causes.
Personally I always put two new tires on the front and have the front tires moved to the back. I don't let the tires get worn to the point of being un safe before replacing them. The steer tires always seem to wear faster ( assuming everything else on the car is in good shape ) because of turning them while sitting still etc.|||The fact is that they should always go on the front. And there are some strong reasons why, the primary one being that all control of the vehicle occurs at the front. Steering, braking, turns, etc. If you put the older tires on the front and they are not worn even, then you throw off caster and camber. But the big issue is that an older, or worn tire is more prone to failure than a brand new one. If you blow out a front tire at 70 mph, you have got big trouble on your hands. If you have a blowout on a rear tire, you can safely slow to a stop without veering out of control.|||i always go with the drive tires. so if its fwd put them on the front, if its rwd then put them on the back.|||This always causes a debate. For 30 plus years I used to believe that putting new tires on the front axle is the right solution, but this video from Michelin converted me...
http://www.funandsafedriving.com/ftopict鈥?/a>|||Hey, Mr. Mad, I say, why buy only 2? Spend that extra cash and do what most ppl do, buy 3 and get the 4th one free!!! Hope that helps.|||Hey buzz is right always put new tires on the front unless you are driving backwards, That is where you control the car I don't care what they say
Does anyone know where I can get some discount low profile tires for 19" rims?
I can't afford expensive ones...just basic tires...in new condition, but at a low price.|||Discounttiresdirect.com
Tax paid - Free shipping to your house.|||stop trying to be cool man put on there what was taken off. low profile ride like hell. and are bed on the suspention.even more so it you get cheep ones. u could couse more problums. just to look cool.
Tax paid - Free shipping to your house.|||stop trying to be cool man put on there what was taken off. low profile ride like hell. and are bed on the suspention.even more so it you get cheep ones. u could couse more problums. just to look cool.
Where can i get the tires on my Saturn L300 aligned?
i need to get my tires on my Saturn L300 aligned but i don't know where to go who charges under $100 for all 4. does saturn do them under warranty? how much does sears, discount tire or tires plus charge? i am kind of on a budget right now.|||I've never heard of getting tires aligned, only suspension. Call around and see who does 4-wheel alignments, and how much they charge.|||The best place I've found is Midas - mostly because they guarantee their work and they have locations nation-wide. The alignment applies to the front axle while wheels are balanced and rotated. Before you do anything, suggest that you check the air pressure on all 4 tires. If you have one or 2 that are low, this will cause the vehicle to "pull" in a similar manner as a front end out of alignment.
All the best.
All the best.
Different Tire Sizes = Differential Problems?
I went into Pep-Boys for an alignment and they saw that I had two different tire sizes on the back. I had to replace a differential a couple of months back. I had all 4 tires replaced at Discount Tire at the same time. Could the tire size difference cause the diff to go bad?|||Yep, the differential is a set of gears in the rear-end that is designed to allow the wheels on the rear-end to turn at different speeds when cornering. When going straight these gears are basically not being used. When you use tires with different circumferences you basically place the gears under the stress that they see when they turn all of the time. This creates more heat in the differential which wears out the fluid and causes the differential to prematurely fail. I would go back to discount tire and talk to them about it. They are the ones that should have to pay your repair bills because they are the ones that screwed up the tires which screwed up your differential.|||Depends on how big the circumference difference is, it should tell you in the manual how much is allowed, some cars are very sensitive to this, like subarus are very sensitive and shouldn't have more than 3% difference in circumfearance... If it's a rear wheeldrive car have them measure all 4 tires and pair up the closets matching once on the rear, or just get a new set of tires.|||The gears in the differential compensate for further distance being traveled by one wheel when turning corners and the ratios are based on two wheels with the same diameter. Using different size tires would indeed place undo stress on the gear system and could lead to failure.|||Oh yes it could!|||yes
Discount Tires black baked on enamel rims wheels?
Do they last forever like good silver alloy ones?
Will they rust?
How to clean?
Any advice on diff types experiences welcome...
Thanks in advance :)|||If baked should be OK, just wash and wax like rest of car. Shouldn't rust if done right. Check to see if they were powder coated which is best way.
Will they rust?
How to clean?
Any advice on diff types experiences welcome...
Thanks in advance :)|||If baked should be OK, just wash and wax like rest of car. Shouldn't rust if done right. Check to see if they were powder coated which is best way.
What type of tires should i get for my car?
I have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 17 inch wheels and do not know much about tires. I am currently looking at Kumho Ecsta Asx, which are all season. Does anyone know if these are good tires? Or would someone recommend someone recommend another type of tire? Also is Kumho a good brand? I am buying them at Discount Tires i think, and they offer a warranty for $62, whcih will cover them up to 3/32" or 3 years. If i do not get that, then if something does happen to them, it is prorated for how much they will cover. Is this worth purchasing? Thanks for your help.|||http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp
They have a forum for tire rating .... I have bought from them before and was well satisfied..... A tire warranty is like a battery warranty..if it fails soon after you buy it you do ok...later its prorated and you dont do as well..|||Personally I would not buy Kumho tires again. I had them on my 1995 Camaro Z28 and I didn't think they were worth the $150 per tire I spent. But then again, my camaro had a lot more power than your Mazda 3. I'd recommend something that's similarly priced such as Yokohama instead of anything made by Kumho. They make a fantastic tire and are priced right around what you plan to pay. Goodyears are good too but cost too much money. Check out the Yokohama's at Discount Tires website www.tires.com.|||ROUND ONES???|||Check your owners manual, see what tire it recommends. If you don't have the manual look the car up on line, see what recommend tire is for that specific car.|||kumho are very good tires .i have them on my car .check the price on tirerack .com there prices are low ands they ship them quickly to your home or to the garage of your choice|||if u can get 17 for 62 dollars u better check if they are new thats a exelent deal
They have a forum for tire rating .... I have bought from them before and was well satisfied..... A tire warranty is like a battery warranty..if it fails soon after you buy it you do ok...later its prorated and you dont do as well..|||Personally I would not buy Kumho tires again. I had them on my 1995 Camaro Z28 and I didn't think they were worth the $150 per tire I spent. But then again, my camaro had a lot more power than your Mazda 3. I'd recommend something that's similarly priced such as Yokohama instead of anything made by Kumho. They make a fantastic tire and are priced right around what you plan to pay. Goodyears are good too but cost too much money. Check out the Yokohama's at Discount Tires website www.tires.com.|||ROUND ONES???|||Check your owners manual, see what tire it recommends. If you don't have the manual look the car up on line, see what recommend tire is for that specific car.|||kumho are very good tires .i have them on my car .check the price on tirerack .com there prices are low ands they ship them quickly to your home or to the garage of your choice|||if u can get 17 for 62 dollars u better check if they are new thats a exelent deal
Are tires sold at discount stores the same as tires sold at pricey stores if they have the same name?
I got a postcard from a pricey car store claiming that manufacturers sell different tires under the same name. I bought Goodrich Radial Long Trails from Sam's Club and now I need a new set. Are are different quality tires sold under the same style name?|||The tires at discount stores are exactly the same as the brands and types sold in pricier stores. They have to be, it is the law.|||It might be the same name but tires come rated for different speeds, terrain, and weather conditions.|||They are the same tires, made by the same manufacturer.|||Same brand name yes, but not the same model name.|||Often times the discount stores will carry a discontinued line of tires - but the brand names and tires are the same quality as the "pricey" outlets.|||No. A BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail tire is a BF Goodrich Radial Long Trail tire whether you buy it at Sams Club, or at a Mercedes Benz dealership. The store that sent you that postcard is obviously full of it, and I would avoid them if I were you.|||same tire, try a indy tire dealer, always a good start|||Yes and no . Some tire manufacturers do make cheaper grades , but they are also with a different name . If you buy say a Goodrich Radial T/A at Sams and at Discount tire , they will be the same , but probably a different price . Now that doesn't mean you can't buy the same name and still get a different tire from 2 places . You gotta compare apples to apples - in other words ALL the name and sizes the same . You need to make sure all of the info on the tire is the same .
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